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Issue
27 — November 2001 |
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27 |
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Title |
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Authors |
| Newsletter |
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Hair
care active ingredients — Cosmetic properties and methods for evaluating
their efficacy |
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Olga
Freis, Alain Charbonnelle, Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau, Véronique
Gillon, Gilles Pauly |
| Figure
1:Nutritive and regenerating effect on bulbar
keratinocytes. Effects of Seanamin® FP LS 5988 on the preservation of
the micro and ultra structures of anagenic hair bulbs: graphic representation
of quantitative results and photomicrographs illustrating the results of
the 3 experimental conditions. (DMEM = Dubelcco's Modified Essential Medium). |
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A: DMEM; B: + 5 % Seanamin FP; C: + 10 % Seanamin FP
 Altered
area  Protected
Area |
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big
version |
1. Introduction: Structure of hair - Origins and consequences
of its changes
The physical and chemical condition of hair plays an important role in the maintenance
of its structure and in its cosmetic appeal. For example, the cuticle, the most
external protective layer, is not merely a physical barrier for the constituent
of hair, but has a fundamental function in numerous cosmetic qualities of hair,
such as brightness, sensorial aspect and combability. Similarly, the cortex, a
constitutional internal part of hair, gives hair its mechanical resistance and
plays a role in the esthetics of hairdressing.
| Figure
2: Demonstration of the mitotic activity of human
hair follicles. Illustration by microphotographs.(Mitotic cells: green spots) |
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version |
| Figure
3: Stimulating effect of cellular mitotic activity
of bulbs of human hair follicles ex vivo |
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Some cosmetic treatments, such as hair coloring and permanent waves, drastically
change hair. All operations, such as combing/brushing, and environment exposure,
e.g. pollution, exhausted gases, solar light as well as exposure to UV-A or UV-B,
damage hair and change its texture. Hair modifications depend on the extent of
the treatment and can be found either only on cuticular surface or sometimes,
alterations can involve the whole fiber and even reach the follicular living part.
With extensive experience in hair care and advanced, well-documented efficacy
tests supporting meaningful claims, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) offers a
vast array of high quality original active ingredients from various origins. Creative
formulators may select the suitable actives in order to satisfy specific needs
for high value hair care products of the future.
In the following, an overview of the products offered by LS which stimulate, protect
and/or repair hair and contribute to its embellishment is given, and their effects
are described. In Table 1, the hair care program offered
by LS is shown. It is categorized into groups according to the main benefits of
the ingredients. Please also refer to Table 2 which gives
an overview of the hair care ingredients tested by LS and described in this report
(see attachments).
2. Nutritive and regenerating effect on bulbar keratinocytes
Milk, a very rich natural product, has been appreciated by the cosmetic industry
for its nourishing, moisturizing and regenerative properties. Cleopatra used it
for beauty care. This natural raw material contains many mineral components essential
to the vitality of hair and the scalp. The defatted fraction of milk is particularly
interesting.
| Figure
4: Protecting and repairing film-forming effect.
Particular case of Oceagen® LS 8424 |
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Figure
5: Illustration of a biofilm-coating, conditioning
and protecting effect in a fixation liquid (confocal microscopy evaluation).
Results with the active Hydro-Trichosyl® LS 8846:
A normal control hair; B permed hair: clear damage of surface
(destructured, creased look); C permed hair in presence of the active
in the fixative: absence of damage, preserved structure |
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Lactolan® LS 5879, rich in oligopeptides and amino acids, lactose
and its derivatives, minerals and biocatalysts, has an outstanding eutrophic action
on human keratinocytes. The introduction of Lactolan® LS 5879
into the incubation medium of cell culture causes the stimulation of keratinocytes.
The stimulation of cells begin just after two days of incubation and reaches its
maximum at 6 days. This activity is long-lasting and dose-dependent.
Seanamin® FP LS 5988 (Figure 1) preserves
the integrity of germinative keratinocytes in anagen hair bulbs. This effect is
observed by the complete preservation of cyto-tissular integrity. Several cytoimmunological
studies have demonstrated its stimulating effect on germinative keratinocytes.
Dermosaccharides® GY exhibits a stimulating effect on bulbar
keratinocyte mitosis (Figure 2 and Figure
3). The mitotic activity was evaluated after an immunocytochemical reaction
with anti Ki 67 antibody. In the control survival medium, hair bulb cells show
some proliferating activity, enabling growth. Adding 1% of Dermosaccharides®
GY has increased hair bulb cell proliferating activity by
98% compared to the control.
3. Demonstration of a film-forming and protective
effect on hair (Figure 4 and Figure 5)
Film-forming, conditioning, protective and repairing effects were evaluated with
scanning electron microscopy and confocal microscopy. Dry hair was obtained by
a treatment with an anionic surfactant, followed by rinse. Then, the damaged hair
was treated with the active ingredient. Under electron microscopy, we observed
dry and raised edges on the cuticle scale on the damaged hair. Further to the
treatment with the active ingredient, the scales recovered their cohesion and
their level of hydration. The edges turned up less; the hair was surrounded by
a protective microfilm. Hair was conditioned and repaired. This benefit was found
with Oceagen® LS 8424, Sphingoceryl® VEG LS 8712 and Lactolan®
LS 5879.
Images obtained with confocal microscopy showed the protective and repairing effect
on hair damaged by permanent wave treatment. The structure and surface of permed
hair were modified. These changes were minimized when Sphingoceryl®
VEG LS 8712 or Hydro-Trichosyl® LS 8846 were added to the fixation
liquid during the permanent wave treatment.
4. Moisture retention properties
Human hair can absorb a definite quantity of water when exposed to humid atmospheric
conditions or after direct application of water and can lose it in dry conditions
(lower humidity). The substances having hygroscopic and water retention properties
help the hair to keep the humidity inside the hair even in dry conditions. The
moisturizing activity was evaluated by using a gravimetric method which consists
of weighing small locks of hair before and after treatment. A hydroretention effect
has been determined after two hours in low relative humidity conditions. The treatment
with Hydro-Trichosyl® LS 8846 showed an important hydro-retention effect.
The moisturizing activity has been expressed by a weight increase of 1.3% while,
in the control group, no weight increase has been observed.
The moisturizing activity was also demonstrated for Lactolan® LS 5879
(Figure 6A and Figure 6B).
5. Improvement of combability (Figure
7)
Combability was measured with a tensile device using a comb moving at a constant
speed through a lock of hair. The electrostatic load generated by the passage
of the comb was measured simultaneously.
The typical dry combing curves are illustrated in Figure 7.
The combing force is low and stable during the passage of the comb through the
hair tress with a high peak that corresponds to the hair tips, more resistant
to the comb passage. The same pattern may be observed for the electrostatic charge
distribution. The first small peak demonstrates the beginning of the combing process.
Thereafter the charge caused by the comb is stable with a clear increase corresponding
to the high resistance of hair tips. The treatment of hair with Lactolan®
LS 5879 (illustrated in Figure 7), Oceagen® LS 8424, Irwinol®
LS 9319 or Sphingoceryl® VEG LS 8712 has considerably and significantly
reduced the peak for combing force as well as the peak of electrostatic charge
produced by hair combing.
6.
Improvement of sensorial aspects on damaged hair (Figure 8)
Sensorial evaluation of the effect of Irwinol® LS 9319 versus Shea
butter and placebo was done on human hair (undamaged normal hair, and on hair
damaged by bleaching and perm).
Hair tresses were treated as follows:
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with placebo
rinse-off emulsion |
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with rinse-off
emulsion containing 1% Shea butter |
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with
rinse-off emulsion containing 1% Irwinol® LS 9319. |
The sensorial properties were evaluated comparatively to corresponding control
hair tresses.
On
wet hair, combing force and untangling activity (A) were evaluated.
| Figure
6: Hydroretaining activity of Lactolan® LS
5879 on hair. 6A: diagram of the experimental protocol; 6B: graph
showing results |
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a: 
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6
b:
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On
dry hair, the following sensorial characteristics were evaluated:
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combability
and untangling activity (B) |
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suppleness
and softness (C) |
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static
electricity (D) |
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volume
(E) |
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brightness
(F) |
Irwinol® LS 9319 improves the combability, suppleness, softness and
brightness of damaged hair, especially bleached hair, significantly stronger than
placebo. Irwinol® LS 9319 shows superior effects on the volume of hair
in comparison to Shea butter.
| Figure
7: Illustration
of curves of the combing force and the distribution of the static electricity
on the hair tresses (3 measurements on the hair tress). |
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7. Sun damage on hair
Hair has natural protection against the sun's rays. However, some damaging effects
on hair caused by the sun have been underestimated for a long time. These damaging
effects result in a greater detriment to hair. UV rays cause major changes in
the mechanical ultra-structural and sensorial properties of hair, such as a change
of texture, a dry appearance, an increase in porosity, a loss of suppleness, etc.
UV rays also effect the color and brilliance of hair. The color fades and becomes
dull, whether it is natural or colored hair. The UV induced damage involves deep
changes in the structure of the keratin caused by the photo-oxidation of amino
acids, sterols and fatty acids in hair. It results in rupture of disulfurated
bridges, decomposition of lipids, decrease in melanin (pigments of the hair) as
well as numerous micro-molecular lesions. All these observations have been confirmed
in our laboratory.
One of the methods of hair damage evaluation due to UV irradiation is the reaction
with dansyl chloride.
Dansyl chloride is a typical sulfonyl chloride that reacts with a wide variety
of bases. It has been used as fluorescent reagent to covalently tag end amino
acid groups of peptides and proteins. Hair being a proteinous material composed
of polypeptide chains, contains free N-terminal amino acids and certain other
groups capable of reacting with dansyl chloride under the certain pH conditions.
The fluorescent measurement of dansylated hair can quantitatively assess certain
types of hair damages.
The
efficient protection against UV damage of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques' active
ingredients has been shown by the pre-treatment of hair with Lactolan®
LS 5879 or Seanamin® FP LS 5988.
Lactolan® LS 5879 not only gives photoprotection on normal hair but
also on colored hair, as well as:
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a
21% increase in photoprotection as measured with the dansyl chloride test
and |
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a 28% to
31% increase in photoprotection, on colored hair, depending on the colorant,
as determined by the dansyl chloride test and extensiometry, with even higher
results for colored hair |
Seanamin® FP LS 5988, our peptidic complex of actin and oligo-elements,
ensures a protective and repairing effect against UV radiation. It increases the
photoprotecting action up to 30%, as determined by the dansyl chloride test (Figure
9).
| Figure
8: Evaluation
of Irwinol® LS 9319 at 1% compared to Shea butter at 1% and a placebo,
on sensorial characteristics of damaged hair. |
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8. Evaluation of anti-hair loss effect
Trichogen® VEG LS 8960 is an original trichogenic complex, rich in
botanical components selected for their revitalizing properties. The presence
of Ginseng sulfopeptides stimulates the oxygenation, the vitality and the growth
of bulbar keratinocytes. Burdock extract acts synergistically to reinforce and
revitalize the scalp. Some other purified fractions from botanical origin are
combined with aminosaccharides and a vitamin B complex which are known for their
healing and revitalizing action on hair and scalp.
Trichogen® VEG LS 8960 acts as a hair growth activator. Its action
has been clinically and scientifically demonstrated. The experiment for the anti-hair
loss activity was evaluated on 40 men who had major alopecia. A treatment once
every other night on the scalp for 16 weeks with 10% Trichogen® VEG
LS 8960 lotion reduced hair loss significantly. The efficiency of this treatment
showed an increase in hair growth as evaluated by a trichogram and phototrichogram.
These excellent results are due to a stimulation of cellular metabolism, a better
oxygenation and stimulation of the epidermal microcirculation.
As an example, the classic A/T (anagen/telogen) ratio, indicating a renewal of
hair, was increased by 113%. The esthetic and sensorial improvement of hair was
noticeable by a reduction of the greasy appearance, by an enhancement of shine
and by an improvement in combing.
Another result from this treatment is the elimination of dandruff and the reduction
of itching.
| Figure
9: Protecting
and repairing effect of Seanamin® FP LS 5988 on hair against UV induced
photodamage. |
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9. Attachments
Table 1: Overview of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
(LS) hair care program by benefit
| Category |
Benefit |
Trade
name |
| Beautifying |
Softness,
volume, brilliance, spring, ease of combing |
Dulcemin
LS 8594
Indinyl CA LS 8998
Irwinol LS 9319
Oceagen LS 8424
Sphingoceryl VEG LS 8712
Hydro-Trichosyl LS 8846 |
| Nourishing
- Stimulating |
Oxygenation,
energy, vitalization of hair bulb, stimulation of hair growth |
Dermosaccharides
GY
Trichogen VEG LA 8960
Lactolan LS 5879 |
|
Protecting - Repairing |
Against
stress by permanent wave, UV, coloring, bleaching |
Sphingoceryl
VEG LS 8712
Hydro-Trichosyl LS 8846
Lactolan LS 5879
Oceagen LS 8424 |
| Specific
Hair Type |
Care for
stressed, aged, thin, dry hair |
Lactolan
LS 5879
Dermosaccharides GY
Sphingoceryl VEG LS 8712 |
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Anti-hair
loss, stimulation of hair growth |
Trichogen
VEG LA 8960
Dermosaccharides GY |
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Anti-dandruff,
anti-itching of the scalp |
Elestab
HP 100
Trichogen VEG LA 8960 |
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Care for
oily hair and oily scalp |
Elestab
HP 100
Sebaryl PL LS 9088 |
Table 2: Hair care ingredients tested by Laboratoires
Sérobiologiques (LS)
| Trade
name |
Main
component |
Benefits |
| Lactolan
LS 5879 |
milk bio-metabolite |
regenerates
and stimulates hair bulb,
moisturizing and conditioning effects
protects and repairs damaged hair |
| Hydro-Trichosyl
LS 8846 |
mixture
of plant extract with substances of synthetic origin |
improves
sensory qualities,
facilitates combability and disentangling |
| Seanamin
FP LS 5988 |
marine oligo-globular protein combined with oligo-elements |
stimulates
vitality of bulb cells |
| Sphingoceryl
VEG LS 8712 |
phyto-ceramide |
offers
essential lipids to protect and repair dull hair,
anti-age hair care ingredient with excellent conditioning properties |
| Irwinol
LS 9319 |
botanical
butter extracted from Irvingia gabonensis |
improves
combing and sensorial benefits on damaged hair |
| Trichogen
VEG LS 8960 |
phyto-synthetic
complex |
helps
to recover a normal rate of hair loss |
| Dermosaccharides
GY |
purifed
marine glycogen |
stimulates
growth of hair follicles,
stimulates mitotic activity of bulbar keratinocytes |
Author
Dr. Olga Freis
Olga Freis, Pharmacist, PhD, has been working at Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
since 1987. She is responsible of the Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology.
Her main activities are skin and hair care product evaluation. She takes part
in the research for new active ingredients of botanical origin.
Address
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques - Cognis France
Département Recherche et Développement
5 - 7 rue de Seichamps
F 54425 Pulnoy
France
E-Mail: olga.freis@cognis.com
Internet: http://www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com
