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Issue
28 — January 2002 |
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The focus on anti-aging skincare has been intensifying over the past decade. Competition
between the major brands, new technologies, new ingredients and a worldwide growth
in "baby boomers", those consumers born after World War Two, have all
contributed to developments within the category.
To give an idea of the size of this potential market, there are some 78 million
consumers aged 35-54 years old living in the US, accounting for 31% of the population.
These people have no intention of letting age catch up with them, for after all,
this is the rock and roll generation who are now turning to alternative therapies
and anti-aging treatments. They also have disposable income, but will only spend
money if the products they buy produce results.
Anti-aging skincare first came onto the scene during the late 1980s, with brands
such as Dior's Capture which contained the first liposome ingredient delivery
system.
David Jago, market analyst for Mintel, describes the change in approach that has
taken place since then: "Today, the scientific properties, ingredients and
benefits of the products are clearly communicated on the packaging. In the late
1980s, some products existed which claimed to firm, tone, erase lines etc., but
the functional ingredients in those products were generally kept under wraps.
Today's consumer press often covers specific skincare ingredients and their benefits,
thus better educating the consumer."
The result is a skincare category in which we see the most number of products
that are geared to specific age groups or age needs. As women seek to make their
aging skin look younger or their young skin healthier, skincare companies have
developed a number of products designed to answer those needs.
Since the early 1990s, there has been a great deal of research into anti-aging
skincare ingredients. The breakthrough came with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) which
was the first ingredient to make a dramatic difference to the skin. Sally Penford,
of the International Dermal Institute, a post-graduate training school for therapists,
comments: "It stimulated women to start considering cosmetic surgery, glycolic
acid peels and laser treatments. There is still a lot we don't know, but we know
we can impact on the health of the skin."
She maintains that the other great revolution in anti-aging skincare has been
in the use of vitamins and says: "The anti-oxidants A, C and E as well as
the Bs and essential fatty acids all have a special role guarding against premature
aging. However, they do not produce miracle cures, but can support, protect and
improve the condition of the skin."
The mounting evidence supporting the role these ingredients play in anti-aging
skincare is causing a major shift in the medical community's perception of aging
skin. Once considered an unstoppable force of nature, aging skin is now increasingly
looked upon as a preventable condition. Doctors have conducted enough positive
testing to recommend specific anti-aging products to their patients and many dermatologists,
particularly in the United States, use them regularly in their treatments.
Some of the research into ingredients, such as vitamin C, dates back to the 1980s.
For example, the concept of topical delivery of vitamin C was an outcome of research
undertaken in the mid 1980s by two American scientists, Meisner and Schnitsky.
While studying diabetes and connective tissue diseases they verified the essential
role of a specific type of vitamin C -L -ascorbic acid -in maintaining youthful
smoothness and elasticity to the skin. In addition, they identified two key chemical
"helpers" to assist in the delivery of vitamin C through the skin. They
patented their discovery and the formulations derived from it led to the development
of Cellex-C anti-aging products which pioneered the worldwide vitamin C skincare
industry of the 1990s (see Photos).
New products containing pure concentrated vitamin C keep coming onto the market,
such as Laboratoires Garnier's Synergie STOP which is formulated with a combination
of vitamin C and pure Retinol. Until recently, it has been extremely difficult
to combine both Retinol and vitamin C together in a stable formulation, as both
ingredients are readily oxidised on exposure to the air, making them inactive.
L'Oreal scientists have developed a triple phase emulsion, or a water-in-oil-in-water
emulsion, in which both ingredients can be combined.
  |
Anti-aging
product with vitamin C
Photos courtesy of
Cellex-C International
Inc. |
Retinol, or vitamin A, which is naturally present in the skin, is now widely used
in anti-aging formulations. It plays an important role in keeping skin smooth
and reducing the appearance of fine lines by stimulating the natural biological
process of cell renewal. However, as skin ages and is repeatedly exposed to harmful
UV rays, levels of vitamin A produced in the body invariably decrease. Aging skin
renews itself less quickly and the epidermal layer becomes progressively thinner.
There has also been a great deal of interest in the anti-oxidant benefits of grape
seeds, first pioneered by the French company Caudalie. L'Oréal has also
harnessed the benefits of grapes for its Lancôme Vinéfit line and
most recently for L'Oréal Plénitude Activ Futur. Grape polyphenols
are natural compounds derived from white grape seed extract which have been shown
to have a powerful anti-oxidant effect. They shield the skin from the aggression
of a wide range of free radicals and are known to help maintain the skin's moisture
levels. The biological properties of grape polyphenols have the effect of significantly
counteracting an enzyme which is responsible for skin dehydration, a problem which
tends to increase with age.
Scientists' understanding of the different types of aging means that they are
able to develop anti-aging treatments that target the symptoms of aging more accurately.
It is recognised that 90% of skin damage is caused by external environmental aging.
This includes exposure to smoking, wind, pollution, chemicals, and, most importantly,
UV radiation. Free radicals or oxidants, are naturally generated in the body as
a reaction to the aggression of external, environmental factors such as UVA and
UVB rays, petrol, cigarette smoke, and internal factors such as stress and tiredness.
A consequence of this aggression is an acceleration of the skin's aging process,
with a loss of radiance, elasticity and tone.
Ms Penfold says: "People living in celtic countries who have had less sun
exposure tend to have less skin damage. However, a lot of damage is done in the
early years and people do not see the results of this until they are in their
forties and fifties."
Fortunately, scientific advances in skincare and the growing knowledge of the
skin's physiology means that it is possible to prevent and even repair skin damage
which occurs later on in life. Dr Daniel Maes, Vice-President Research and Development,
Estée Lauder Worldwide, argues: "A lot of studies have been done which
show that protecting the skin can delay the onset of aging. Seven years ago, Estée
Lauder became involved in the SUVIMAX study in France which showed that the use
of anti-oxidants on the skin slows down the aging process. It is also possible
to reduce lines and improve firmness, but we cannot restore the skin back to its
state when we were young. Technology can reduce wrinkles by 50%, but we will never
reduce them by 100%."
(Photos courtesy of Estée Lauder)
The reason for this is due to the skin's chronological aging, which we can do
nothing about. Internal, chronological aging is largely a consequence of genetics
and affects skin all over the body.
Estée Lauder has recently completed research into understanding more about
cellular energy and has launched a product called LightSource which addresses
the symptoms caused by a depletion in energy. Dr Maes explains: "We sampled
skin and found that its thickness is already decreasing from the age of 20. In
biological terms, if the cells are losing energy they will also lose their ability
to protect themselves against the environment." He likens this loss of energy
to that of a battery running low which needs to be recharged.
LightSource is probably Estée Lauder's most advanced anti-aging treatment
yet, which protects cells by means of anti-oxidants, sunscreen and skin energising
technology. It is described as a next generation skin nourisher that enables skin
to tap into a fuel source of bio-available micro-nutrients. These essential trace
minerals combine with amino acids resulting in an increase of cellular energy.
"It's a very exciting time in our understanding of the skin. Our research
shows that even younger skin could be better protected," maintains Dr Maes.
Dr Maes believes that over time skin cells have adapted to their environment and
created a mechanism for self protection. "But the increase in pollution has
been so rapid, that they cannot cope. It will take generations to correct. So
our latest thinking and research is focused on developing skin protection not
from a plain Sun Protection Factor (SPF) but from the cells themselves."
The strides made in anti-aging technology over the past decade have been astounding
and clearly show no signs of abating. We can be certain that there will be many
more exciting advances in skincare technology to come.
Author
Imogen Matthews
Imogen Matthews is a business journalist and market research consultant and is
a regular contributor to the trade magazines Esprit, International Cosmetique
News and Beauty Business News. Her knowledge of the cosmetics, toiletries and
fragrance industries is unsurpassed. In addition, she specialises in providing
quality market research and PR consultancy to clients within the beauty industry.
She can be contacted on imatquarry@aol.com. Website: www.imogenmatthews.co.uk.
