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Issue
28 — February 2002 |
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Author |
| Newsletter |
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Energy,
structure and hair repair through intelligent proteins |
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Iris
Hütter, Peter Busch, Ute Griesbach, Maya Hohle, Wolf Eisfeld |
Introduction
The image of "A land of with milk and honey" (1) was firmly established
in the world of beauty care even before Cleopatra took to bathing in asses's milk,
and it still is. One of the most significant components of milk is milk protein
(2). For millennia humans have thus put their faith in the remarkable effects
of proteins in the care of skin and hair. Modern and traditional formulations
have one thing in common - they rely on this genuine classic cosmetic ingredient,
which is always relevant and always "in."
In olden days there were only vague suspicions that products containing proteins
could have a positive effect on beauty. We now know, however, that the structure
of these multifunctional bioactive substances enables them to interact closely
with our skin and hair (3). It is therefore no wonder that proteins - and especially
milk proteins - have a firmly established place in the world of cosmetics.
Protein active substances for personal care preparations are obtained from a multitude
of natural sources of both animal and vegetable origin, such as wheat, almonds
and rice, as well as the soybean and milk protein hydrolyzates described here*.
The numerous cosmetic benefits of proteins have been intensively studied and are
scientifically recognized (3-7). Up-to-the-minute results and insights are now
available for newly developed protein hydrolyzates and are described below.
Soybean - a "holy" alternative
Soybean is the nutrient of the new millennium. A versatile ingredient in everyday
cooking, it also helps to prevent diseases of civilization, such as cardiovascular
illnesses. Scientists are convinced and even speak of a "soybean revolution"
(8). In view of this it might be thought that the soybean is a trail-blazing new
discovery, but in fact they have a long history, steeped in legend (9).
| Figure 1 |
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| Amino acid profile
of Gluadin® Soy (relative to amino acid content) |
Soybeans were harvested in China, where they were called "dadou" (big
bean), as long as 5000 years ago and there are numerous stories about their discovery.
According to one of those tales, these remarkable beans were found by two war-lords
in China when they lost their way in the wilderness and they saved them from certain
death by starvation (10).
The Chinese therefore consider the soybean - along with rice, wheat, barley and
millet - to be one of the 5 holy plants (11). Certainly the nutrient content of
this "shooting star" of the plant world gives it a special place among
vegetable products in general. Its exceptional mix of amino acids makes it an
excellent source of quality protein. Not only do soybeans supply the body with
all eight essential amino acids but these amino acids are present in much the
same ideal proportions as in meat or poultry protein. Soybean can therefore justifiably
be regarded as a perfect substitute for animal protein (12).
| Figure
2 |
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| Fluorescence
microscope images of hair after treatment with Gluadin® Soy (1% AS) |
"Strength & Energy" for skin and hair
Moreover, the multifunctional soybean protein possesses remarkable cosmetic properties,
as explained below. The described soybean protein hydrolyzate (INCI name: Hydrolyzed
Soy Protein; trade name: Gluadin® Soy) is characterized by an exceptional
amino acid composition (Figure 1). In particular, the high
content of arginine, aspartic acid and glutamic acid deserves special mention.
The role of arginine in imparting strength and energy is almost proverbial; it
strengthens the immune system, stimulates the production of growth hormone and
supports skin's healing process (13, 14). This strength aspect was investigated
in a study with the soybean active substance. The main objective was first of
all to prove whether the hydrolyzed soybean protein can help to strengthen hair,
and if so to what extent.
Intelligent repair process imparts protection and
strength to the hair
To demonstrate these properties, Gluadin® Soy was labeled with a fluorescent
marker (fluorescein isothiocyanate - FITC) so that its substantivity or its penetration
of the hair could be observed by means of fluorescence microscopy. In this way
it was possible to trace the following remarkable path of the soybean active substance
in the hair (Figure 2).
After just one hair treatment a significant absorption of the labeled soybean
hydrolyzate on the hair could be observed from an aqueous solution. Gluadin®
Soy forms a protective protein layer around the sensitive hair fiber. A sort of
preventive seal can thus be created around the hair, shielding it from environmental
influences and harmful substances, and without any undesirable build-up effect.
Absorption occurs preferentially in zones where the hair is most "vulnerable",
such as sensitive edges of cuticle scales, susceptible hair tips and incipient
break sites (Figure 2 and Figure 3).
| Figure
3 |
Figure
4 |
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| Fluorescence
microscope image of a hair fracture site after treatment with Gluadin®
Soy (1% AS) |
Fluorescence
microscope image of hair cross sections after treatment with Gluadin®
Soy (1% AS) |
It follows that a targeted repair effect can be achieved by applying this soybean
active substance. Intelligent proteins recognize the exposed weak points of the
hair, demonstrating substantivity and strengthening the hair fibers exactly where
this is most urgently necessary.
Energizer of the hair's natural protective layer
Gluadin® Soy can also be regarded as an energizer of the cuticle, which is
the hair's natural protective layer. Day in, day out the cuticle is exposed to
enormous stresses ranging from daily brushing, shampooing and hair styling to
ultraviolet radiation and other environmental influences, as well as permanent
waving and bleaching (15). The undesirable consequence is lackluster, brittle
hair, which is difficult to comb and style (15). This is precisely where the "Strength
& Energy" concept of the studied soybean active substance comes in.
Gluadin® Soy protects, strengthens and repairs the hair. It keeps the cuticle
smooth and supple and thus has a positive effect on the hair's feel and shine.
Sensory assessments attested to a structuring effect and a stronger tactile sensation
after the use of Gluadin® Soy.
Penetration as far as the outer cortex
In addition to the formation of an effective protective film on the hair surface,
Gluadin® Soy penetrates as far as the outer cortex (Figure
4). In other words, tiny nature-identical building blocks penetrate deep into
the hair and strengthen it.
Improvement of hair volume and styling
Another proof of effectiveness, which supports the "Strength & Energy"
concept of Gluadin® Soy, is provided by measurements of the bending strength
of hair strands. In this test a hair tress is bent to a certain degree and the
force that has to be exerted is measured quantitatively. The test can yield information
about the strength or stability of the examined hairs and the resulting hair volume,
because flexural strength is one of the factors that have a considerable influence
on hair volume (16).
Just one treatment with Gluadin® Soy was found to have brought about a significant
increase of more than 40% in bending strength (Figure 5).
This may be due to an increase in either the flexural strength of the individual
hair fibers or the cohesion between the fibers. Both of these effects would improve
hair manageability and styling. In addition, the increase in bending stability
contributes to an increase in hair volume and body. These results are supported
by the above-mentioned penetration measurements and a recent proof of effectiveness
concerning hair volume.
| Figure 5 |
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| Bending strength of
hair strands - treatment with 0.5% AS Gluadin® Soy |
Modern concepts
All in all, therefore, Gluadin® Soy is especially suitable for concepts focusing
on stressed, permanent-wave-damaged, bleached, dyed, brittle, long hair or sensitive
hair tips, as the following concept approaches indicate:
ESP-Shampoo - Energy, Strengthening, Protection
ESP-Conditioner - Essential Substances Penetration
MODIC-Repair Balm - Molecular Diagnostic Intelligent Cuticle
Repair Balm
Furthermore, Gluadin® Soy can also be used on other types of hair and in all
applications to prevent hair damage (Table 1).
| Table
1: Gluadin® Soy effects and claims |
| "Strength
& Energy" concept: The energizer for the hair |
| Protects,
repairs and restructures the cuticle |
| Intelligent
repair effect due to intelligent proteins |
| Penetration
as far as the outer hair cortex |
| Formation
of a significant protective film on the hair |
| Increase
of more than 40% in the bending strength of the hair fibers |
| Positive
influence on hair volume and styling |
| Especially
suitable for supporting concepts designed for stressed, brittle, long
hair and sensitive hair tips |
|
Skin care effects
In view of the molecular weight of Gluadin® Soy, the above-mentioned proofs
of effectiveness were focused mainly on its effects on the hair. Moreover, it
is known from market surveys and product research that hydrolyzed soybean protein
is also widely used in the skin care sector, e.g. in skin-structuring, reactivating
and anti-wrinkle products.
Milk makes beautiful
Milk is not only one of the most valuable natural nutrients, particularly rich
in calcium, vitamins and minerals (2); in addition to this, "milk makes beautiful".
Fascinating women from Nefertiti to Cleopatra to Empress Elizabeth of Austria,
better known as Sissi, famed for their beauty and their beauty secrets, have known
this for thousands of years. Milk had a permanent place in their beauty care.
Nutrilan® Milk - The goodness from milk for the
benefit of beauty
The studied milk protein hydrolyzate (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Milk Protein; trade
name: Nutrilan® Milk) is obtained from casein, the most important protein
fraction of milk (2). Its dominant amino acids are glutamic acid and proline (Figure
6). Two interesting facts are worth mentioning here. Firstly the amino acid profile
of casein is very similar to that of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of
human skin (17). Secondly this special profile is responsible for the much higher
thermal stability of these milk proteins in comparison with other proteins. This
is why casein does not undergo denaturation like whey proteins during the boiling
process of milk (whey proteins form the familiar and widely disliked skin on boiled
milk) (17, 18).
| Figure 6 |
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| Amino acid profile
of Nutrilan® Milk (relative to amino acid content) |
| Figure 7 |
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| Skin tonicity by cutometer
measurement |
The explanation: Proline occupies almost every tenth position in the casein amino
acid chain and due to its pyrrole ring it occupies a large amount of space. This
frequent occurrence prevents the formation of a higher secondary structure of
casein, such as a helix or ß pleated sheet structures. Moreover the proline
position acts as a hinge, around which the rest of the protein chain can move
relatively freely. This gives the casein molecule an extremely flexible structure,
enabling it to cushion very effectively kinetic energy in the form of, for example,
heat used for the boiling of milk. Casein can therefore resist denaturing for
a long time.
Flexibility and tonicity for the skin
Nutrilan® Milk can transfer natural casein's unique flexibility to human skin.
This can be demonstrated by measuring skin tonicity with a cutometer (Figure
7). The parameter "skin tonicity" describes the skin's ability to
return to its original state after being extended vertically. It also enables
conclusions about specific skin properties such as elasticity and resistance.
In comparison with a placebo lotion it was demonstrated that a lotion containing
Nutrilan® Milk is able to bring about a significant improvement in skin elasticity
and texture after just one application (Figure 7). This
active substance derived from milk thus demonstrably displays a positive influence
on the mechanical resistance and tonicity of the skin. Nutrilan® Milk is therefore
genuinely capable of transferring the flexibility of the casein molecule to human
skin.
Revitalization and protection for the hair
| Figure
8 |
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| Fluorescence
microscope images of hair after treatment with Nutrilan® Milk (1% AS) |
As with Gluadin® Soy, the effect of Nutrilan® Milk on the hair was studied
with the help of fluorescence microscopy. In this way it was possible to show
the remarkable absorption behavior of Nutrilan® Milk on hair fibers (Figure
8). A significant protective film of milk hydrolyzate was observed on the
hair fibers after just one application of Nutrilan® Milk. Nutrilan® Milk
thus wraps itself around each single hair fiber, forming a protective protein
layer. A striking aspect is that, as well as providing external protection, the
active substance penetrates into every layer of the cuticle (Figure
8). In other words, Nutrilan® Milk revitalizes the hair's natural protective
layer, the cuticle, through and through by providing it with support just where
it is urgently needed. The result is vital, protected and healthy hair.
| Figure 9 |
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Sensory
assessment on hair (selected parameters) after conditioner treatment with
3% AS Nutrilan® Milk
(red = negative, green = positive assessment; 0 line = placebo formulation
without Nutrilan® Milk) |
Soft and supple hair
Alongside this aspect of protection and revitalization, Nutrilan® Milk exhibits
a positive effect on the haptic sensation factor of the hair. In sensory assessments
- an extremely valuable tool that takes account of the contemporary desire for
immediately perceptible cosmetic effects - hair treated with Nutrilan® Milk
was assessed as very pleasant (Figure 9). The hair was felt to be less dry and
brittle and thus giving an impression of softness, smoothness and suppleness.
All in all, Nutrilan ® Milk, the active agent from the goodness in milk, genuinely
pampers skin and hair (Table 2).
| Table
2: Nutrilan® Milk effects and claims |
| "Softness
& Protection" concept: The care active from the goodness
in milk |
| Similar amino
acid profile to the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of human skin |
| Improvement of
the tonicity and elasticity of the skin |
| Formation of
a significant protective film on the hair surface |
| Revitalization
of the hair cuticle |
| Active substance
penetration into all layers of the cuticle |
| Positive
effect on the haptic sensation factor of the hair, especially with
regard to softness and suppleness |
|
Description of the methods
| Study of substantivity
and penetration behavior |
| Hair: European
natural hair strands (Kerling) |
| Pretreatment:
1 bleach or 1 permanent wave treatment and rinse with water |
| Treatment with
FITC-labeled protein solutions: 30 minutes exposure to 1% AS solutions
and drying in the air |
| Fluorescence
microscopy: Scanning photometer microscope MPM03 (Zeiss, Jena) |
|
| Study of flexural
strength |
| Hair: European
natural hair strands (Kerling), 5 strands |
| Pretreatment:
1 bleach and hair wash with lauryl ether sulfate (15%, pH 6.8) |
| Protein treatment:
Exposure to 0.5% AS solutions overnight (approx. 16 h) and 3-minute
rinse |
| Instron 1122
tensile testing machine with special measurement device (5 measurements
per strand) |
|
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to acknowledge DWI (Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut) in
Aachen, particularly Prof. Franz-Josef Wortmann and Dr. Karola Schäfer for
their assistance in carrying out the fluorescence and bending strength measurements.
Author
Iris Hütter
Dr. Iris Hütter is a State-certified Food Chemist. She completed her doctoral
thesis at Henkel, Düsseldorf in cooperation with the University of Hamburg
— Institute for Biochemistry and Food Chemistry. In January 2000 she assumed
the position of Product Manager at Cognis High Care and was in charge of active
ingredients and additives such as proteins, vitamin E and phytosterols for use
in cosmetic products. Since January 2002 she has been Global Product Manager HBO
for applications in hair, body and oral care, especially for marketing protein
products.
References
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(1990), 159-163
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and exciting developments for an "old" amino acid. Biomedical and Environmental
Sciences, 9, 2-3, (1996), 296-315
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16. P. Hough, H. Huey, W. Tolgyesi, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 571 (1976)
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... - Biochemie im Alltag. 1. Aufl., Wiley-VCH-Verlag: Weinheim (1998), 205-208
Gluadin® Soy and Nutrilan ® Milk are registered trademarks
of Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
