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| Market Report | Developments in anti-aging skincare | Imogen Matthews |
The focus on anti-aging skincare has been intensifying over the past decade. Competition between the major brands, new technologies, new ingredients and a worldwide growth in "baby boomers", those consumers born after World War Two, have all contributed to developments within the category.
To give an idea of the size of this potential market, there are some 78 million consumers aged 35-54 years old living in the US, accounting for 31% of the population. These people have no intention of letting age catch up with them, for after all, this is the rock and roll generation who are now turning to alternative therapies and anti-aging treatments. They also have disposable income, but will only spend money if the products they buy produce results.
Anti-aging skincare first came onto the scene during the late 1980s, with brands such as Dior's Capture which contained the first liposome ingredient delivery system.
David Jago, market analyst for Mintel, describes the change in approach that has taken place since then: "Today, the scientific properties, ingredients and benefits of the products are clearly communicated on the packaging. In the late 1980s, some products existed which claimed to firm, tone, erase lines etc., but the functional ingredients in those products were generally kept under wraps. Today's consumer press often covers specific skincare ingredients and their benefits, thus better educating the consumer."
The result is a skincare category in which we see the most number of products that are geared to specific age groups or age needs. As women seek to make their aging skin look younger or their young skin healthier, skincare companies have developed a number of products designed to answer those needs.
Since the early 1990s, there has been a great deal of research into anti-aging skincare ingredients. The breakthrough came with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) which was the first ingredient to make a dramatic difference to the skin. Sally Penford, of the International Dermal Institute, a post-graduate training school for therapists, comments: "It stimulated women to start considering cosmetic surgery, glycolic acid peels and laser treatments. There is still a lot we don't know, but we know we can impact on the health of the skin."
She maintains that the other great revolution in anti-aging skincare has been in the use of vitamins and says: "The anti-oxidants A, C and E as well as the Bs and essential fatty acids all have a special role guarding against premature aging. However, they do not produce miracle cures, but can support, protect and improve the condition of the skin."
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Anti-aging
product with vitamin C
Photos courtesy Cellex-C International Inc. |
The mounting evidence supporting the role these ingredients play in anti-aging skincare is causing a major shift in the medical community's perception of aging skin. Once considered an unstoppable force of nature, aging skin is now increasingly looked upon as a preventable condition. Doctors have conducted enough positive testing to recommend specific anti-aging products to their patients and many dermatologists, particularly in the United States, use them regularly in their treatments.
Some of the research into ingredients, such as vitamin C, dates back to the 1980s. For example, the concept of topical delivery of vitamin C was an outcome of research undertaken in the mid 1980s by two American scientists, Meisner and Schnitsky. While studying diabetes and connective tissue diseases they verified the essential role of a specific type of vitamin C -L -ascorbic acid -in maintaining youthful smoothness and elasticity to the skin. In addition, they identified two key chemical "helpers" to assist in the delivery of vitamin C through the skin. They patented their discovery and the formulations derived from it led to the development of Cellex-C anti-aging products which pioneered the worldwide vitamin C skincare industry of the 1990s (see Photos above).
New products containing pure concentrated vitamin C keep coming onto the market, such as Laboratoires Garnier's Synergie STOP which is formulated with a combination of vitamin C and pure Retinol. Until recently, it has been extremely difficult to combine both Retinol and vitamin C together in a stable formulation, as both ingredients are readily oxidised on exposure to the air, making them inactive. L'Oreal scientists have developed a triple phase emulsion, or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, in which both ingredients can be combined.
Retinol, or vitamin A, which is naturally present in the skin, is now widely used in anti-aging formulations. It plays an important role in keeping skin smooth and reducing the appearance of fine lines by stimulating the natural biological process of cell renewal. However, as skin ages and is repeatedly exposed to harmful UV rays, levels of vitamin A produced in the body invariably decrease. Aging skin renews itself less quickly and the epidermal layer becomes progressively thinner.
There has also been a great deal of interest in the anti-oxidant benefits of grape seeds, first pioneered by the French company Caudalie. L'Oréal has also harnessed the benefits of grapes for its Lancôme Vinéfit line and most recently for L'Oréal Plénitude Activ Futur. Grape polyphenols are natural compounds derived from white grape seed extract which have been shown to have a powerful anti-oxidant effect. They shield the skin from the aggression of a wide range of free radicals and are known to help maintain the skin's moisture levels. The biological properties of grape polyphenols have the effect of significantly counteracting an enzyme which is responsible for skin dehydration, a problem which tends to increase with age.
Scientists' understanding of the different types of aging means that they are able to develop anti-aging treatments that target the symptoms of aging more accurately. It is recognised that 90% of skin damage is caused by external environmental aging. This includes exposure to smoking, wind, pollution, chemicals, and, most importantly, UV radiation. Free radicals or oxidants, are naturally generated in the body as a reaction to the aggression of external, environmental factors such as UVA and UVB rays, petrol, cigarette smoke, and internal factors such as stress and tiredness. A consequence of this aggression is an acceleration of the skin's aging process, with a loss of radiance, elasticity and tone.
Ms Penfold says: "People living in celtic countries who have had less sun exposure tend to have less skin damage. However, a lot of damage is done in the early years and people do not see the results of this until they are in their forties and fifties."
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Fortunately, scientific advances in skincare and the growing knowledge of the skin's physiology means that it is possible to prevent and even repair skin damage which occurs later on in life. Dr Daniel Maes, Vice-President Research and Development, Estée Lauder Worldwide, argues: "A lot of studies have been done which show that protecting the skin can delay the onset of aging. Seven years ago, Estée Lauder became involved in the SUVIMAX study in France which showed that the use of anti-oxidants on the skin slows down the aging process. It is also possible to reduce lines and improve firmness, but we cannot restore the skin back to its state when we were young. Technology can reduce wrinkles by 50%, but we will never reduce them by 100%."
The reason for this is due to the skin's chronological aging, which we can do nothing about. Internal, chronological aging is largely a consequence of genetics and affects skin all over the body.
Estée Lauder has recently completed research into understanding more about cellular energy and has launched a product called LightSource which addresses the symptoms caused by a depletion in energy. Dr Maes explains: "We sampled skin and found that its thickness is already decreasing from the age of 20. In biological terms, if the cells are losing energy they will also lose their ability to protect themselves against the environment." He likens this loss of energy to that of a battery running low which needs to be recharged.
LightSource is probably Estée Lauder's most advanced anti-aging treatment yet, which protects cells by means of anti-oxidants, sunscreen and skin energising technology. It is described as a next generation skin nourisher that enables skin to tap into a fuel source of bio-available micro-nutrients. These essential trace minerals combine with amino acids resulting in an increase of cellular energy. "It's a very exciting time in our understanding of the skin. Our research shows that even younger skin could be better protected," maintains Dr Maes.
Dr Maes believes that over time skin cells have adapted to their environment and created a mechanism for self protection. "But the increase in pollution has been so rapid, that they cannot cope. It will take generations to correct. So our latest thinking and research is focused on developing skin protection not from a plain Sun Protection Factor (SPF) but from the cells themselves."
The strides made in anti-aging technology over the past decade have been astounding and clearly show no signs of abating. We can be certain that there will be many more exciting advances in skincare technology to come.
Author
Imogen Matthews
Imogen Matthews is a business journalist and market research consultant and is a regular contributor to the trade magazines Esprit, International Cosmetique News and Beauty Business News. Her knowledge of the cosmetics, toiletries and fragrance industries is unsurpassed. In addition, she specialises in providing quality market research and PR consultancy to clients within the beauty industry. She can be contacted on imatquarry@aol.com. Website: www.imogenmatthews.co.uk.
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