 | |
Issue
32 — February 2003 |
| | | |
Today's high pressured lifestyles leave little time for self-indulgence, so people
are looking to the products they use daily to provide them with a little respite
from stress. Skin care is now benefiting from the wellbeing trend and companies
are introducing dual function products which treat the skin and calm or energize
the spirit.
Massage, aromatherapy and other pampering treatments were once considered an occasional
treat, but increasingly are becoming an essential part of our lifestyles. With
new spas opening every week and gaining extensive media coverage, consumers are
becoming more knowledgeable and demanding of skin and body care products. As a
result, the emphasis is shifting from how a product makes you look to how it looks,
smells, feels, even tastes and the effect it has on you. So bronzers, foundations
and cellulite creams do not just give the user a flawless appearance but make
the skin feel wonderfully cool.
Procter & Gamble has combined its skin care expertise with the rapidly developing
field of tactile sensory science in its Olay Touch Sensory Moisturiser. P &
G's consumer research identified that women have always respected their sense
of touch, despite sensory deprivations of the modern world. Phil Marchant, European
research and development manager at Olay, explains: "Women innately realise
that the feel of their skin is a great indicator of the condition of their skin.
We realised that one of the biggest indicators of a skin in good condition is
how it feels."
Olay Touch works on two levels: vitamin B3 boosts cell turnover and builds the
texture while special 'silky beads' deliver very high levels of moisture to improve
elasticity. In many moisturisers, there is a trade off between the hydration and
immediate skin feel. P & G overcame this by adding special 'sensory smoothers'
which leave the skin soft and comfortable with no sensation of stickiness or heaviness.
With its first launch into the body care market, L'Oreal Paris ensured that the
Plenitude Body Expertise range combined both science and wellbeing. The range
of body moisturisers, exfoliators, toners and firmers are based on the idea of
an indulgent spa treatment, offering different and pleasurable textures. The formulations
combine richness with rapid absorption for quick and easy application. The fragrances
deliver freshness with a sense of vitality and well-being. Hydrafresh is described
as a moisture quenching body spray which has a fruity fresh fragrance with musk
accents, designed to awaken the senses.
Essential oils have been incorporated into Plenitude Oléonergy as they
are believed to affect wellbeing by stimulating the sensory receptors located
in the upper part of the nose. These receptors transmit olfactory messages to
the area of the brain which regulates the emotions.
L'Oreal's Garnier division has also developed a range of body products which have
the dual function of moisturising the skin and energising the mind. The Body Tonic
products contain an uplifting citrus fragrance to give an instant boost by revitalising
the senses. Diana Heyer, MGCP Reflexologist and Massage Therapist recommends:
"For a quick pick-me-up if you're tired, use the Body Tonic cream and vigorously
massage the soles of your feet with your thumbs, working from the base of your
heels to the tips of your toes."
Energising skincare by Swiss Formula St Ives is formulated to energise the skin
through cleansing, toning and moisturising. The range includes wipes which can
be used at any time to cleanse and freshen the skin. The St Ives Energising skincare
products all contain natural ingredients, such as camomile to soothe and witch
hazel to revitalize and refresh.
Balm
mint is one of the traditional European medicinal herbs. Due to its
calming and skin protecting properties it is an active ingredient in
cosmetic formulations such as skin tonics, massage oils, cleansers of
oily skin as well as hair balms and lip balms.
|
Decléor skin care products harness the restorative powers of natural, concentrated
essential oils derived from flowers and herbs and the healing properties of plants,
resins and fruits. Clary sage, geranium, juniper, lavender, lemon grass and neroli
are some of the natural essences used in Decléor products to calm, tone,
stimulate, heal and revitalise the skin. These essential oils are used to create
potent skin care preparations. The oils contain many active ingredients which
are made up of hundreds of molecules that act in synergy with one another. Each
of these substances can be identified using a chromatogram which produces a chemical
profile to determine the oil's characteristics.
The major role of Decléor scientists is to analyse precisely the benefits
of every essential oil's cutaneous and olfactory effects before cataloguing them.
The cumulative effects of this work has led to the establishment of Decléor's
'aroma library'. This is constantly updated with research into new botanical species
with the sole purpose of extracting their most active molecules, the essential
oils.
Clarins has also devoted many years of research into the study and analysis of
plants in order to incorporate these technologies into its aroma-phyto beauty
care products. The fragrant (aromatherapy) and treatment benefits (phytotherapy)
of plants are combined in Clarins skin and body care products.
Essential oils have always been at the heart of Clarins formulas as they often
display excellent skin treatment properties for which no synthetic substance can
compare. Furthermore, when inhaled, the highly volatile molecules of essential
oils carry fragrant messages to the brain which directly influence mood. Clarins
Aromatic Plant Day Cream, for example, contains palmarosa, which has a delicate
rose-like fragrance with relaxing properties which can help to relax facial features.
When used on the skin, it also moisturises and tones.
Rosewater is a key ingredient in the cult skincare range Chantecaille, which draws
on aromacology. For all the products in the Aromacologie range, water is replaced
by Chantecaille Rosewater and blended with organically grown flowers and the highest
quality essential oils. Rosewater has been used throughout time to combat skin
ageing and maintain a clear complexion, as well as to cure headaches. Chantecaille
Rosewater is derived from the rose de mai, grown in the hills of Grasse in France,
which are distilled early in the morning with artesian well-water. It helps to
soothe, heal, moisturize and is also uplifting.
Scientific
research over the past years has confirmed many of the traditional uses
and established pharmacological mechanisms for the therapeutic activity
of camomile. It is a mild ingredient for gentleness in numerous cosmetics,
particularly in baby care.
|
Guerlain's Issima make-up removers and cleansers are also formulated with flower
extracts, each of which have specific properties suited to each product. Mallow
is used for moisturizing and softening, iris for purifying, rose to tone tired
skin, hawthorn for clarity and radiance and lily to soothe delicate, irritated
skin.
Guerlain has also brought an innovative skin care product in the Issima range
which claims to be the first daily moisturizer in stick form. It has a concentrated
formula, containing 25% active moisturizing ingredients in a silky smooth texture
that blends easily into the skin. Hydramythic Stick "quenches the skin's
thirst", producing an immediate sensation of freshness.
Revlon's Ultima II research centre in Bezons France has discovered mood-enhancing
properties in magnolia plant extract which has been incorporated into a new skincare
range called Ultima II Bio Feeling.
Jacques Poret, director of research and development, Ultima II, explains: "Bio
Feeling is a skin restorative and mind relaxant treatment range, that liberates
the skin and mind from tension to regain beauty and positive energy. A delicate
bouquet of flower essences sourced from magnolia extracts acts on the emotions
to instil energy and a state of total harmony, arousing feelings of relaxation
with its heady and mood-lifting molecules."
Bio Feeling claims to be the first skincare range to utilise an anti-stress biofactor
called HSP (Heat Shock Proteins) which provides an immediate source of recovery
for skin damaged by stress and fatigue. When skin is exposed to the stress and
tension that accompanies modern living, it becomes tired, dull and lined, making
it unreceptive to normal cosmetics treatments. "Skin that is stressed will
not be able to maximise the benefits of any key active ingredients until HSP has
been naturally released or topically applied," maintains Poret. The HSP anti-stress
biofactor used in Bio Feeling was developed to be compatible with human skin cells.
When topically applied, it immediately protects and repairs skin from stress.
The benefits are that the skin looks more relaxed, less fatigued and takes on
a luminous, youthful appearance.
Stress relief is also the basis of Origins' Peace of Mind aromatherapy-based products.
Origins first introduced Peace of Mind On-the-spot relief in 1990 as part of its
Sensory Therapy line. The mind-clearing formula inspired a collection of botanically-based,
anti-stress aromatherapy solutions. These include Peace of Mind Cease and De-stress
Diffuser, a pocket-size cartridge containing basil, peppermint and eucalyptus,
which the user can sniff to initiate a rapid relaxation response. These essential
oils are also used in On-the-spot relief, which can be dabbed onto the temples,
earlobes and back of the neck to ease away tension.
The trend for adding sensory ingredients into skin care products is well established
as consumers seek solutions to combat the stress of daily life. The possibilities
are endless and skincare companies will continue to research the mood-enhancing
properties of ingredients with a view to developing new and innovative concepts
based around wellbeing.
Author
Imogen Matthews
Imogen Matthews is a business journalist and market research consultant and is
a regular contributor to the trade magazines Esprit, International Cosmetique
News and Beauty Business News. Her knowledge of the cosmetics, toiletries and
fragrance industries is unsurpassed. In addition, she specialises in providing
quality market research and PR consultancy to clients within the beauty industry.
Address:
18 Quarry High St
Headington
Oxford
OX3 8JT
Tel: 01865 764918
Fax: 01865 741536
email: imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
