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| Issue 32 |  |
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| Category | Titel | |||
| Show Case | Cosmedia SP — an innovative polymer for skin care products with high precision |
A trend toward products with a light consistency and good spreadability is observable on the market for skin care products. As cosmetic products are trickling down from the prestige into the mass market, higher demands are associated with the sensorics, aesthetics and structure of skin care products. Another major trend in skin care is emphasizing the well-being factor.
On the basis of traditional emulsions, product concepts are frequently required which are emulsifier-free and thus enable the formulation of light products with very high sensorial aesthetics and which make new product claims possible.
Cosmedia SP (1) is an emulsifying polymer which is based on polyacrylate and has the chemical structure of sodium polyacrylate. It has a special influence on the sensorics, aesthetics and structure of skin care products.
It can be incorporated in a variety of uses in the area of facial care, body care and suncare and enables the formulation of creams, lotions and sprays. Cosmedia SP provides a high precision when emulsifying, stabilizing and thickening since sensorial effects can be precisely adapted in the cosmetic formulations.
The special advantages of Cosmedia SP are the light texture, easy spreading and the fast absorption of emulsions and its high flexibility with regard to the oil phase. A light, very agreeable skin feel can thus be achieved in skin care products.
The polymer Cosmedia SP is suitable for a variety of uses and has an application flexibility from viscosity to thin sprayables. It can be combined with a large variety of emulsifiers or may be used without any additional emulsifiers. Thus, so-called gel creams are obtained.
The thickening effect of Cosmedia SP already shows at small concentrations of just 0.2 per cent. It has a very good compatibility with ethanol. This is of advantage for formulations which have high amounts of fragrances. Very good effects may be achieved in sun protection products with a high light protection factor, i.e. a very light sensorics can be achieved.
Cosmedia SP can be cold processed. The fine gel structures guarantees an optimal stability. It shows its positive characteristics even in low concentrations, so that it can be used in a particularly cost-effective way.
Table 1 and Table 2 provide formulations incorporating Cosmedia SP.
(1) Cosmedia is a registered trademark of Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co KG. INCI= Sodium Polyacrylate.
Further information:
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Postfach 13 01 64
D-40551 Düsseldorf
Tel. (+49) 211/7940-9093
Fax: (+49) 211/ 798-2717
E-Mail: Bettina.Jackwerth@Cognis.com
Cognis France S.A.
185, Avenue de Fontainebleau
F-77981 St Fargeau Pontierry
Tel. (+33) 1-6065-2366
FAX : (+33)-1-6065-2101
E-Mail: Valerie.Pian@Cognis.com
Table 1 Anti-Stress Fluid
| Ingredient |
INCI |
w/w % | |
| I. | Eumulgin
BA 25 |
Beheneth-25 |
1.0 |
| Cetiol CC | Dicaprylyl Carbonate | 5.0 | |
| Cetiol SN | Cetearyl Isononanoate | 4.0 | |
| Eutanol G | Octyldodecanol | 3.0 | |
| DC 9040 (Dow Corning) | Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclohexasiloxane | 3.0 | |
| Cegesoft SH | Shorea Stenoptera Butter | 1.0 | |
| II. | Water |
Aqua |
add to 100 |
| Glycerin |
Glycerin |
5.0 | |
| Butylene Glycol (interchemie) | Butylene Glycol | 2.0 | |
| Phenonip
(Sipca) |
Phenoxyethanol
(and) Parabens |
0.6 | |
| III. |
Rhodicare
XC (Rhodia) |
Xanthan
Gum |
0.1 |
| Pemulen
TR-1 (Noveon) |
Acrylates
/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer |
0.3 | |
| IV. |
NaOH
(sol. 50%) |
Sodium
Hydroxide |
0.2 |
| V. |
Cosmedia
SP |
Sodium
Polyacrylate |
0.5 |
| VI. |
Micropearl
M100 (Seppic) |
Polymethylmethacrylate |
3.0 |
| VII. |
Copherol
F 1300 |
Tocopherol |
0.5 |
| Parfum
Pétale 13912E (Firmenich) |
0.5 | ||
| Ginseng
BG (Alban Muller) |
Butylene
Glycol (and) Panax ginseng root extract |
1.0 | |
| Ajidew
N 50 (Uripex) |
Sodium
PCA |
1.0 | |
| Indinyl
CA LS 8998 |
Water
(and) Cassia Angustfolia Seed Polysaccharide |
5.0 | |
| A.P.S.
LS 8425 |
Vegetable
complex |
0.2 |
Viscosity, Brook. RVT, 23° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm mPas 20 000.
Eumulgin, Cetiol, Eutanol, Cegesoft, Cosmedia and Copherol are registered trademarks of Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG.
Table 2 Detoxifying Mask
| Ingredient |
INCI |
w/w % | |
| I. | Water |
Aqua |
add to 100 |
| Glycerin |
Glycerin |
10.0 | |
| Butylene
Glycol (Interchimie) |
Butylene
Glycol |
5.0 | |
| Phenonip
(Sipca) |
Phenoxyethanol (and) Parabens | 0.6 | |
| II. | Cosmedia SP | Sodium Polyacrylate | 1.8 |
| III. | Eutanol
G |
Octyldodecanol |
3.0 |
| Myritol
331 |
Cocoglycerides |
3.0 | |
| Fitoderm |
Squalane |
2.0 | |
| Cetiol SN |
Cetearyl Isononnanoate |
2.0 | |
| Cetiol
SB 45 |
Butyrospermum Parkii |
2.0 | |
| Cetiol
MM |
Myristyl
Myristate |
1.0 | |
| IV. | Dermosaccharides
GY |
Water
(and) Glycerin (and) Glycogen |
2.0 |
| Parfum
Eau de Peche 123732 B (Firmenich) |
Sodium
Hydroxide |
0.1 | |
| FDC
Red 40 (sol. 1%) (LCW) |
CI
16035 |
00.3 |
Viscosity, Brook, RVT, 23° C, TE Helipath, 4 rpm mPas 225 000.
Cosmedia, Eutanol, Myritol, Cetiol and Dermosaccharides are registered trademarks of Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG.
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