Issue 35 — December 2003

Issue 35
Category		Titel
Show Case		Eumulgin HPS - A high-performance solubilizer

Eumulgin HPS is a mixture of three components that work in synergy to improve the solubilizing power of each component (1). The performance of Eumulgin HPS convinces with regard to efficacy, handling and sensorial acceptance.

Solubilizers are used in a wide range of cosmetic products to incorporate highly lipophilic substances such as perfumes, essential oils/extracts, and UV filters. The use of solubilizers might give a negative sensoric effect to the final formulation (tackiness, oiliness, waxiness depending on the type and on the used percentage). Additional drawbacks could be related to the handling if the solubilizer needs heating and/or stirring to have a homogeneous product before use or gel formation might occur during the production process. Other disadvantages could be strong coloring, bad color, loss of viscosity.

Eumulgin HPS overcomes these difficulties with a high solubilizing efficacy that covers a wide range of lipophilic ingredients (e.g. perfumes, natural extracts/oils, UV filters, vitamins). The result can be a reduced amount of solubilizer in the final formulation. Moreover, its liquid form at low temperature allows an easy handling and time saving in production. Its organoleptic characteristics make it particularly suitable for highly sophisticated products in which color and odor play an important role.

Eumulgin HPS performs very well in aqueous as well as in aqueous-alcoholic systems.

Table 1: Product profile of Eumulgin HPS

INCI name:	Coceth-7 PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Active substance:	90 %
Characteristics:	clear, light yellowish liquid quickly water soluble low percentage of use high range of efficacy cold-processable no gel formation excellent sensorial properties

Sensorial properties of Eumulgin HPS

Eumulgin HPS was investigated in a professional sensory assessment against PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. When a sensory assessment test was performed on an after shave formulation with an optimal concentration of Eumulgin HPS, the good results were confirmed for Eumulgin HPS when compared with the same formulation using a higher amount of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

Eumulgin HPS improves smoothness and softness and reduces tackiness and waxiness. It has a better spreadability leading to an easier application and faster absorption. The final effect is a more comfortable and silky skin feeling.

Table 2: Applications of Eumulgin HPS

Eumulgin HPS is an universal solubilizer. It can be applied in several subsegments of the Personal Care market.

Possible applications are:

• Bath and shower products
• Hair styling products
• Body care
• Fragrances
• Antitranspirants/Deodorants*
• FFeminine hygiene / wipes / diapers*
• Sun care*
• Shaving products*
• Hair treatment & colorants*