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Issue
36 — April 2004 |
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| Market
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Wellness
and cosmetics: products to make you look and feel good |
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Imogen
Matthews |
These days, cosmetics need to offer
considerably more than just functional benefits. Not only are they expected to
incorporate excellent performance features, but must deliver an emotional benefit
too. Cosmetics that can lift the spirits are a recent trend which fits in with
the current desire for looking after oneself and achieving a sense of well-being.
The wellness concept is most pronounced within the area of facial skincare and
body care, where certain buzz words are commonly used, such as 'aromatherapy',
'aromachology', 'well-being' and 'mood-enhancing'. Market research company Mintel
has identified products which fit into the wellness category via its global new
products database (GNPD). David Jago, Editorial Director of Mintels GNPD, comments:
I'd say that 'wellness/well-being' has been a major buzz word in skincare since
2001. Most products using that language are aromatherapeutic products and there
are also products that use fragrance in a functional way (to enhance wellness),
but that are perhaps not strictly speaking aromatherapeutic.'
In the German market, there is a strong emphasis on the word 'wellness' in product
decriptions. For example, a recent addition to the German bodycare market is the
Declaré Body Wellness range, which includes Relaxing Body Balm containing
apricot kernel oil and bisabolol for their soothing and relaxing benefits. Another
example is Schwarzkopf & Henkel's Fa Wellness System Haut-Straffende Body
Lotion, a lifting body lotion with algae and oxygen.
Research company Euromonitor has noted a demand for premium products combining
colour and care in the German market, following the beauty plus wellness trend.
Claire Briney, market analyst for Euromonitor, observes: 'Given the ageing of
the German population, those products that meet the demands of older skin by adding
extra moisture or reducing fine lines and wrinkles will perform well. Facial make-up
will benefit especially from products concentrating on care, and sales are predicted
to experience a (strong) increase.' Briney maintains that the wellness theme will
continue to be of major importance in Germany and that additives such as herbs,
vitamins and fruit extracts will be a common feature in categories such as shampoos
and conditioners.
It is in skincare where the association with wellness is most pronounced, with
many new product launches in both the premium and mass-market sectors of the market,
not only in Germany but across Europe. Mintel's GNPD reports the launch of Mitia
Wellness in the Polish market, a light body cream with panthenol and vitamin E,
while French retailer Auchan has also tapped into the wellness trend with its
Creme Vitamine C Face Cream, which claims to nourish the skin giving it back its
radiance and to give a feeling of instant well-being.
Guerlain has taken the wellness concept a stage further in the launch of its Happyology
facial skincare line which contains an exclusive complex featuring pre-endorphins
said to recreate the effects of 'happiness on the skin'. The objective is to release
endorphins deep within the skin in order to enhance cell activity in the epidermis
and dermis and to recreate the natural effects of happiness. The results are said
to include a visible difference to the skin which looks plumped up and reinvigorated
resulting in a radiant, clear and vibrant complexion. Dr. Laurent Misery, a specialist
in cutaneous neurobiology, comments: 'Endorphins act both within the epidermis
and the dermis. On the one hand, they stimulate the activity of the keratinocytes,
the skin cells responsible for the 'surface appearance' of the skin. And on the
other hand, they boost the activity of fibroblasts, the cells in the dermis that
are responsible for the quality of the skin at a deeper level, and therefore for
the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.' In addition, Guerlain has created a
light signature fragrance for its Happyology line containing fruity top notes
of blackberry and pear to induce a feeling of happiness.
The addition of fragrance ingredients in order to promote a sense of wellbeing
is now widely used in skincare. Lancome's Absolue Night Recovery Treatment not
only uses the latest anti-ageing technology in its formulation but contains a
sensorial fragrance produced from a combination of mulberry leaves, may rose,
blackcurrant buds, sandalwood and vanilla. Absolue Night's fragrance is designed
to inspire a moment of calm and relaxation and to promote repairing sleep.
Kenzoki is a new skincare range from fragrance company Kenzo which draws on aromachology
in its formulations which are all about well-being. Each of the products in the
extensive facial and bodycare range has been formulated with invigorating or voluptuous
fragrances for a sensorial effect. There are four ranges under the headings energising,
euphoric, relaxing and sensual which are inspired by the ancient Chinese Ki philosophy.
In addition, innovative products designed to heighten the sensations include perfumed
ice cubes for the body, described as extreme cosmetics, and Vital-Ice Cream, an
invigorating face cream which is recommended for use directly from the refrigerator
for its toning and regenerating properties. The latter's fragrance is based on
the ginger flower which is said to have a positive action on one's mood.
The Kanebo Body Care Line offers total wellness for the body and soul, with particular
emphasis on the power of fragrance. Kanebo maintains that the body and the soul
are utterly inseparable and to attain true beauty the soul needs real contentment
and fulfilment. The products utilise centuries-old herbal traditions and the latest
state-of-the-art science. Green tea is used in the Refreshing Foaming Body Exfoliator
for its exhilarating scent, while the Relaxing Fragrant Mist Body Treatment has
a blend of ingredients including bamboo selected for their relaxing properties.
Nowadays, many people use yoga as a way of achieving balance in their lives and
as an antidote to stress. The Body Shop has addressed this European-wide trend
with the launch of the first personal care collection designed to support the
practice and principles of yoga. The range consists of five products containing
a base blend of pure essential oils such as ginger, grapefruit, lemon, lemongrass,
lime, orange flower, patchouli and sandalwood extract as well as additional authentic
Indian herbs used in ayurvedic practise. Included in the range is Prana Temple
Massager, a roller-ball massager which helps refresh and refocus the mind and
includes the Indian herbs haritaki and gotu kola used in ayurvedic practise for
their antioxidant and revitalising properties.
Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare has harnessed the power of essential oils
in its Vital Oils Bath Blends which are all about taking time out from a busy
lifestyle and relaxing. The three fragrance blends are Comfort, Harmony and Bliss,
each formulated with potent mood-enhancing ingredients. Harmony, for example,
harneses refreshing citrus notes to balance and lift the senses with grounding
woody elements to help focus thought and bring peace of mind. The Vital Oil blends
were born out of journalist Liz Earle's New Vital Oils book which explains how
adding certain oils to our diet can be significant and life-changing.
Shiseido has extended its Energizing Fragrance range with the introduction of
Sparkling Body Gel, an invigorating body gel with an Eastern Botanical Complex
(a combination of moisturising elements and natural skin energisers), said to
'envelop the skin in subtle, shimmering smoothness while a vibrant fusion of sheer
floral musk notes uplifts the spirit with a sense of well-being'.
Origins Sensory Therapy range includes five Peace of Mind products dedicated to
easing the four main symptoms of stress: physical, mental, emotional and behavioural.
Peace of Mind On-the-spot-relief has a mind-clearing formula of basil, peppermint
and eucalyptus which should be applied to the back of the neck, temples and earlobes
to relieve pressure and tension.
Many of the Origins products provide value-added benefits of mood-enhancing properties.
In September 2003, Origins brought out Incredible Spreadable Scrub in ginger and
sea salt variants, which are body exfoliators for smoother, softer skin. Sea Salt
body smoother has an energising aroma of mint and orange, while Ginger body smoother
has a warming scent married with a citrusy scent of lemon, lime and bergamot.
Ginger has historically been used in Eastern cultures for its warming abilities
and, according to tradition, is so potent that it is never used on its own but
always in combination with cooling herbs to balance its strength.
Coty's The Healing Garden range is another important brand within the area of
aromatherapy/wellness, according to Mintel GNPD, which has recorded the launch
of Ginger Lily Positivity body lotion as part of the range. The new product is
said to promote positive thinking and is also available as a shower gel.
The steady stream of new product launches into the area of wellness and wellbeing
looks set to continue as consumers look for easy personal care solutions to a
stressful lifestyle. New technologies in skincare will focus on harnessing the
potency of plant ingredients in order to create products which not only have excellent
performance benefits but also have a positive effect on the mood of the user.
Imogen
Matthews
Imogen Matthews is a business journalist and market research consultant and is
a regular contributor to the trade magazines Esprit, International Cosmetique
News and Beauty Business News. Her knowledge of the cosmetics, toiletries and
fragrance industries is unsurpassed. In addition, she specialises in providing
quality market research and PR consultancy to clients within the beauty industry.
Address:
18 Quarry High St
Headington
Oxford
OX3 8JT
Tel: 01865 764918
Fax: 01865 741536
email: imogen@imogenmatthews.co.uk
www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
