Issue 37 — October 2004

Issue 37
Category		Title		Author
Market Report		Treating skin from the inside out		Imogen Matthews

Science and skincare are drawing closer together as the cosmetic houses explore new possibilities within the area of cosmeceuticals. Now a new beauty category is starting to emerge in the form of nutraceuticals which are products to be taken internally in order to obtain an external skincare
benefit.

Smooth, youthful-looking skin is the holy grail for many women, especially the growing numbers in their 40s and 50s who are experiencing signs of aging. Growing awareness for health and wellbeing has meant that some consumers are looking to supplements as a means of improving the appearance
and feel of their skin.

One of the pioneers of skincare supplements is Imedeen, which claims to be the world's leading skincare supplement and is available in 48 countries. First launched in 1991, Imedeen was the first product of its kind, creating a new product category and new concept in skincare based on enhancing the skin from within. Unlike cosmetic skincare, which works on the outermost layer of the skin, Imedeen supplies the skin with targeted nutrients from the inside.

Imedeen Time Perfection was launched in 2000 and has a dual-action formula containing a Biomarine Complex and US-patented anti-oxidant LycoPhence GS which help defend, improve and perfect the skin. The product claims to produce visible results after three months, not only on the face but all over the body where skin is dry, mature or sun-damaged. The primary ingredient, the Biomarine Complex, is a patented fish extract which contains similar properties to those found in the dermis and is supported by scientific documentation showing that it boosts skin density. LycoPhence GS is a combination of grape seed extract and lycopene which together create a potent and powerful skin protector. It can neutralise skin-degrading free radicals and creates a shield which protects the structural elements of the skin against future degradation.

US dermatologist, Dr. Nicholas Perricone, MD, has written a book entitled ‘The Perricone Prescription’, which outlines a program designed to firm and smooth the skin, slow the aging process and enhance overall health and appearance. Aimed at consumers in their 40s and 50s, the Nicholas Perricone range of products includes anti-inflammatory skincare, plus nutritional supplemenents and dietary advice.

An emerging trend is for skincare companies to look beyond topical products to the area of supplementation. In 2002, a joint venture between L'Oreal and Nestlé led to the creation of Laboratoires Innéov which specialises in cosmetic nutritional supplements. The status of nutritional supplements is governed by a recent European directive and it is believed to represent a market with strong potential. In the nutri-cosmetics market, the Laboratoires Innéov combine Nestlé's research experience in nutrition and food safety with the dermatological research of L’Oreal.

Innéov Firmness was launched in March 2003, targeting women aged over 40, concerned by the loss of cutaneous firmness. The formula benefits from a technological breakthrough by Nestlé Research called Lacto-Lycopene(TM), which is formulated in combination with vitamin C and soya isoflavones.
During the European Dermatology Congress held in Prague at the beginning of October, the clinical efficiency of Innéov Firmness was demonstrated through a double blind clinical study carried out versus placebo on 90 menopausal women not taking hormonal replacement treatments.

Procter & Gamble is the first toiletries company to extend an existing skincare brand into the area of supplementation with the launch of Olay Vitamins, which is available on the US market. Olay Vitamins Beauty Nutrient is sold under the Total Effects sub-brand which is a successful skincare line that operates under the strapline: ‘helps fight the seven signs of aging’. A combination of vitamins and minerals including CoQ10, vitamin E, alpha lipoic acid with green tea extract are included in Olay's Beauty Nutrient supplement and are said to help support collagen while maintaining good health and well-being. Olay Complete Women's 50+ multivitamin is another skincare supplement which is formulated for mature women's health needs. The formulation contains essential vitamins and minerals as well as calcium, magnesium and zinc for bone health. Vitamin C and vitamin E also provide not only wellness but skincare benefits.

Researchers Mintel are recording an increasing number of nutraceutical-type products via their global new products database. In addition to healthcare supplements, there has been a number of food and beverages claiming skincare and beauty-based benefits. Japan leads the market in these products, some of which make very specific claims, such as to strengthen nails, while others focus on softer, general beauty claims. For example, Shiseido Beauty Foods has a collagen EX supplement drink made with marine collagen, ceramide, elastin, DNA, chondroitin, adlay extract, ginseng and other revitalizing ingredients. Many of the drinks picked up by Mintel are teas, including HyVee Beautiful Skin Herbal Tea in the US, Sapporo Breweries Oolong Beauty Tea in Japan and Fuge’s Tzu Revitalizing Drink in the UK.

Beauty on the outside

The boundaries between cosmetics and medicines have become increasingly blurred, making it difficult to define the term ‘cosmeceutical’. Lynn Dornblaser of Mintel offers an explanation: ‘Cosmeceuticals include products that enhance beauty from the outside -cosmetics, skincare- through ingredients that provide additional health-related functions or benefits, or products that enhance beauty from the inside, which are often drinks or dietary supplements.’ Examples of ‘external’ cosmeceuticals include products that are applied to the skin to firm, lift or enhance or promote hair growth. ‘In the very broadest terms, those are cosmeceuticals, and I think there are dozens and dozens of examples of them’, she observes.

In 1986, Dior was the first company to bring high-tech anti-aging skincare to consumers by applying liposome technology to cosmetics. Over the years, the company has continued to push back the frontiers of its research into the original Capture brand and in 2003 launched a further breakthrough with Capture R60/8(TM). The new formulation combines immediate cosmetic benefits with in-depth treatment by using double patch effect technology. The R-Complex is the cornerstone of the Capture R60/80(TM) range which has the dual capacity to ‘unroll’ over the skin like an invisible patch and to enclose powerful anti-wrinkle agents at the same time. The first instant patch effect visibly pulls up the hollow of the wrinkle and lasts over many hours. The second long-term patch effect releases the R-Complex, a molecular complex containing patented anti-wrinkle agents in the hollow of the wrinkle. The skin's surface layers are helped to rebuild and strengthen, producing a visibly younger look after one month.

Pushing the boundaries of cosmetic science yet further is a new skincare treatment by Lancaster called 365 Cellular Elixir. Aimed at women from 25 years, the product contains Lancaster's patented RPF technology, which is designed to mimic the skin’s own multi-level defence system. 365 Cellular Elixir incorporates a DNA Action Complex, an ‘intelligent’ technology which has been designed to support the skin¹s own DNA protection and repair systems. Photosomes and ultrasomes are liposome structures that make up the DNA Action Complex to support the skin's natural DNA repair process. The formulation also contains a Mediterranean Complex including fig, sugarmelon and pomegranate to help protect and fortify the skin.

Olay's Regenerist skincare line is another example of new cosmetic formulations which are changing the face of anti-aging technology. Olay Regenerist harnesses the latest peptide technology in its exclusive amino-peptide complex which has been proven to regenerate cells in the skin’s outer layer so that it looks, feels and behaves more like new skin. Long used in wound healing, peptides have only recently been found to improve the appearance of photo-damaged skin. Dr Alexa Kimball, Assistant Professor, and Director of Clinical Trials, Dermatology, at Stanford University comments: ‘New research on peptides...are leading to the development of a whole new class of effective and at the same time gentler anti-ageing options.’

Wendy Lewis, international surgery and skincare consultant, has published a book entitled Wrinkle Rescue, which is about cosmeceuticals and anti-ageing skincare. She maintains: ‘There are several main proven helpful active ingredients used in skin rejuvenation, a litany of anti-oxidants, an array of ingredients which play a supporting role and some new, still unproven entries into the rejuvenation scene. Some ingredients may have a place as a stand-alone product or they might be used as part of a multi-step approach.’ She identifies four new cosmeceutical developments which are likely to gain importance. Niacin, a component of the B vitamin complex, shows promise as an over-the-counter ingredient in anti-aging products. Vitamin K combined with retinol has been shown to boost collagen production in the skin. Growth factors are compounds that act as chemical messengers between cells, turning on and off a variety of cellular activities. They are extracted from cultured epidermal cells, placental cells, human foreskin and plants. Spin traps are at the cutting edge of cosmeceutical advancements and have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties useful in treating skin conditions such as rosacea and sunburn.

In the future, consumers will recognise that even the most advanced skincare formulations are not enough to combat aging and maintain skin health and that a healthy lifestyle including nutritional supplementation will need to be a part of their daily beauty routine.