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Issue
39 — July 2005 |
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| Editor's
note: This
article authored by Imogen Matthews, the leading business journalist and
market research consultant in Britain and specialist in the British cosmetics,
toiletries and fragrance industries is an observation of trends of a market
segment for special skin care products which are offered on the American
and British markets. From a journalistic point of view, Matthews describes
special market niches which have become apparent in these markets, which
have other prescription laws than for example Germany and Austria. The
reader should differentiate between Botox applications which are handled
differently in the various countries, in dependence of the legislation
which is applied there.
The author concludes
that the numbers of dermatological brands are increasing year by year
and it is no secret that some of the larger cosmetic brands are eyeing
them up with a view to acquisition. L'Oréal Group has recently
announced that it has signed an agreement to acquire SkinCeuticals. |
A small but extremely fast growing area of the skincare market is dermatologist-developed
brands which have sprung up only in the past five years. By putting their name
to their own skincare brands, doctors and dermatologists are able to build credibility
amongst consumers who feel they can put their trust into something which has been
medically endorsed.
Many
of the latest advances in skincare technology have been verified via clinical
tests and reported in medical journals, resulting in doctors and dermatologists
marketing their own high performance ranges. When visiting the dermatology clinic,
consumers are far more likely to be persuaded to buy personally prescribed products
as they already respect the dermatologist's authority and expertise on skin conditions.
One of the first dermatologists to recognise the potential of having his own skincare
line was Dr Howard Murad, M.D. (USA) who launched Murad in 1989. Treating patients
with every conceivable kind of skin condition gave him direct insight into what
they needed to care for their skin at home. So he developed targeted formulas
to alleviate a number of skincare concerns. A common skin problem is acne, which
Dr Murad recommends should be treated with Exfoliating Acne Treatment Gel, a patented
formula combining retinol with salicylic and glycolic acids to deep cleanse pores.
Dr Murad currently holds eleven patents for his skincare products, with several
more patents pending, all in the field of anti-aging or skin health.
Another well-known dermatologist is Dr Nicholas Perricone (USA) who launched his
company N.V Perricone, M.D. Cosmeceuticals Ltd in 2001. He designed and formulated
his extensive range of topical and nutritional supplements for the skin, containing
patented super-nutrients, which are said to work on a profound level to help skin
achieve and maintain a more youthful, healthy look. Dr Perricone dubbed his approach
Healthy Aging, contending that aging is caused by low-level inflammation and that
wrinkles and sagging skin are not the inevitable result of growing older. In his
book, "The Wrinkle Cure", Unlock the Power of Cosmeceuticals for Supple,
Youthful Skin, he states: "After nearly two decades of scientific research,
I have discovered a revolutionary, all-natural approach to preventing the signs
of aging by putting nature's most powerful nutrients to work for your skin."
His range is extensive and each product is designed to work synergistically, providing
specific benefits to meet each person's individual needs.
Aware that many women would like the benefits of Botox but do not want to undergo
this cosmetic procedure, Dr Perricone has launched the Face Firming Activator
which lifts and contours the skin whilst minimising enlarged pores and reducing
scars and skin discolouration. The formulation contains NTP Complex, made up of
DMAE, an antioxidant membrane stabiliser which provides immediate lifting and
toning benefits. DMAE stimulates muscle contraction by producing a neurostransmitter
called acetylcholine.
Dr Adrienne Denese (USA), who runs an anti-aging clinic in New York, also sells
an alternative to Botox in her anti-ageing range, Dr Denese. Line-Erase is a needle-free
wrinkle relaxant shown to provide a similar effect to injectable ones but without
the loss of facial expression or need for salon treatment.
Plastic surgeons are also lending their name to dermatological skincare ranges.
Dr Gregory Bays Brown (USA), founder of skincare brand RéVive, is a plastic
surgeon who practises in Kentucky, US. He developed the patented, technologically
advanced RéVive skincare line using the bioactive protein molecule, Epidermal
Growth Factor (EGF), whose discovery won a Nobel Prize in 1986. EGF is a human
hormone required for various metabolic processes and is released from cells upon
injury, speeding up the healing process. As skin ages, the activity of EGF decreases,
meaning the epidermis requires a much longer period of time to replace itself.
Unlike other anti-aging ingredients, EGF causes no redness or irritation. Along
with slowing the wrinkling process and improving smoothness and elasticity, RéVive
decreases puffiness and swelling and reduces allergic skin reactions. Each bio-active
RéVive item can stand alone and is designed to be integrated into any skincare
regime.
SkinCeuticals has the backing of Dr Sheldon R. Pinnel, M.D., (USA), an expert
in the field of dermatology, antioxidants, collagen chemistry and sun protection.
His latest research has been into new technologies to prevent skin cancer and
photoaging. Dr Pinnell is a founding scientist of SkinCeuticals that manufactures
and distributes skincare products to dermatologists plastic surgeons and licensed
skincare professionals worldwide. The brand uses pure, pharmaceutical grade ingredients
with proven scientific results. Formulations are based on optimal concentrations
of active ingredients and the range is designed to meet three fundamental skin
needs: protection, prevention and correction of environmental damage.
Dr Mark Palmer, a UK cosmetic physician, recommends SkinCeuticals to his patients.
"SkinCeuticals' research is of a very high quality which has been scientifically
evaluated, unlike skincare products on sale in shops," he explains. "I
tell patients SkinCeutical products are not cosmetics but are like a medicine
which will bring their skin back to its original state."
The SkinCeuticals research team helped pioneer the first "cosmeceuticals"
with the development of a topical vitamin C formula, scientifically proven to
protect skin from premature signs of aging caused by environmental damage. SkinCeuticals
has a range of patented vitamin C products that use L-ascorbic acid, essential
for the production of collagen.
Vitamin C is a key anti-aging ingredient used by several dermatological brands.
The Dr Sebagh range, named after Dr Jean Louis Sebagh (UK), includes an innovative
Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream in the range which is indicated for the prevention
and treatment of skin aging. The product is presented in a test tube marked with
five 1.95gram doses, which are applied onto a puff and then gently tapped onto
the face. Dr Sebagh claims that this formulation is the best way to overcome the
stability problem of the absorbic acid molecule.
The
NV Perricone range includes several treatments containing vitamin C ester, which
Dr Perricone claims is better utilised and tolerated than other vitamin C products.
Vitamin C ester is fat soluble and therefore can rapidly penetrate the skin six
times greater than the concentration of ascorbic acid. Dr Perricone's patented
vitamin C ester topicals are intended as a highly effective means of enhancing
skin's healthy glow and visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
md formulations, developed and formulated by US chemist Dr Joseph Lewis (USA),
claim to be at the forefront of antioxidant technology. All products in the vitamin
A-Plus and Moisture Defence ranges incorporate powerful and stable antioxidants
which are essential in strengthening, defending and repairing skin damage caused
by everyday environmental exposure. Many products in the md formulations range
are made with glycolic acid and are pH balanced to be gentle.
New York dermatologist Dr Howard Sobel (USA) is the creator of DDF (Doctor's Dermatologic
Formula) specialising in restorative and preventative skincare, providing therapeutic
solutions for acne care, sun protection and anti-aging. DDF was originally available
only to dermatologists and licensed estheticians, but is now sold in retail outlets.
Dr Sobel has had twenty years of experience in the field of dermatology and was
a pioneer in bringing dermatology to cosmetic surgery. The DDF formulations contain
bio-actives from marine, herbal and botanical sources.
Not all dermatological brands incorporate natural ingredients in their formulations.
Agera RX, developed by Dr Donald Owen (USA), contains no plant or animal extracts
nor essential oils or botanical extracts, as, according to Dr Owen, "they
serve no purpose on human skin". Instead, the formulations are based on growth
peptides which were originally developed to protect organs in the process of transplantation.
Agera Rx growth peptides are exact copies of the skin's own proteins that control
skin condition and have been synthesised using revolutionary biotechnology.
Over the last 10 years, Dr Owen has pioneered the development of nanotechnology
and growth peptide research in the US. Harnessing the nanotechnology delivery
system has resulted in the development of Agera Rx Medical Formula products that
can successfully penetrate through the skin and target the cells that control
cell production and collagen and elastin levels.
Dr Owen's current research interests involve the aging mechanisms of the skin
and new methods of topical delivery technologies including electroportation and
microdermabrasion. The purpose of this research is to focus on the practical problems
of delivering dermal anti-aging, age retardation and prevention, and repair therapies
to human skin.
The numbers of dermatological brands are increasing year by year and it is no
secret that some of the larger cosmetic brands are eyeing them up with a view
to acquisition. Just as professional make-up artist brands including MAC, Bobbi
Brown and Stila, caught the attention of Estée Lauder companies, who subsequently
bought them, so too must many of these niche medical brands be ripe for acquisition.
Indeed, L'Oreal's Active Cosmetics division, which focuses on clinical brands,
has acquired Biomedic, a skincare range used and sold by dermatologists and plastic
surgeons. And Estée Lauder-owned Prescriptives has signed New York dermatologist
Dr Karen Grossman to lend credibility to the brand. It won't be long before the
trend for dermatological skincare brands moves into the mainstream.
Author
Imogen Matthews is a respected business and trade journalist with many
years' experience of working in the cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances
industry for a wide range of international titles. She also undertakes market
research studies based on her extensive knowledge and contacts within
the beauty industry.
For further details call 00 44 1865 764918 or contact
the website www.imogenmatthews.co.uk
