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Issue
41 — November 2006 |
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Article |
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A
new concept for effective color cosmetics using the Active Powders technology
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Pierre
de Pouilly, Philippe Grisoni, Isabelle Benoit, Véronique Gillon,
Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau |
Introduction
Since its first appearance over 5000 years ago, make-up has evolved greatly under
the influence of fashion and changes in way of life, but also due to technical
innovations in the field of chemistry. Until now these innovations have mainly
been related to research into new colors or original textures.
Current make-up formulations have reached a stage close to perfection. This is
a result of developments in pigments and polymers technology. A wide range of
cosmetic properties -- from long lasting to easy wear -- is achievable; a powdery
effect can be given to liquid make-up; every shade of color and all types of light
effects can be achieved. Consequently, make-up consumers now expect more than
finely tuned colors and customized skin feel properties. As they constantly expect
innovations, it is time for make-up to enter a new dimension, to go from pure
decorative purpose to treatment claims, by incorporation of active ingredients.
The incorporation of active ingredients in make-up products depends primarily
on their hydrophilic or hydrophobic nature. In the latter case, formulation is
possible in all make-up products, as all comprise an oil phase in which the active
ingredient can be mixed. In the past, an introduction of hydrophilic active ingredients
into make-up was strictly limited to emulsions such as liquid make-up and mascaras,
excluding all anhydrous formulations because of raw material incompatibilities
and process restrictions. A breakthrough was achieved with the development of
the innovative technology of Active Powders*.
The patented process of Active Powders allows for the incorporation of water soluble
active ingredients in anhydrous formulations, broadening the range of care claims
that can be made with colour products. Active Powders are formed by up to 70%
of hydrophilic particles containing the active ingredient, and protected by an
hydrophobic polymer. The hydrophilic particle contains up to 90% of an aqueous
solution of active ingredient. The form of the product is a breakthrough in itself:
a dry powder that contains up to 63% of an aqueous phase.
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques has so far developed four products using the
Active Powders technology (see Table), covering the main cosmetic claims. Additional
developments are on-going:
| Table:
Active Powders Product Range |
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Active
Powder Firmness: for anti-aging make-up, via improvement of skin firmness
(clinical test) |
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Active
Power Purity: for matifying effect, via sebum regulation |
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Active
Power Whiteness: for skin lightening, via reduction of hyperpigmentation |
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Active
Powder Moist: for the improvement of the skin complexion, via a moisturising
effect |
As evidenced by the efficacy studies below, the biological activity of the ingredient
is maximized when formulated in Active Powders: pre-solubilized in the particle
for optimal bioavailability. Thanks to its natural affinity towards skin moisture,
the active substance diffuses spontaneously into the upper layers of the skin,
without the need for rubbing in.
Efficacy studies
In two tests, in-vivo and ex-vivo, the spontaneous diffusion of water-soluble
compounds, when encapsulated in Active Powders was demonstrated. The biological
activity of the water soluble active ingredient entrapped in Active Powder has
been confirmed in a clinical study conducted on volunteers, to demonstrate the
improvement of the skin firmness when treated with a hot poured make-up formulation
containing 5% of Active Powder Firmness. The capacity of the technology to withstand
high pressure during pressed powder production was then demonstrated in a colorimetric
study.
In vivo demonstration of spontaneous diffusion
Protocol:
The aim of this test was to compare the disappearance of a water soluble blue
dye into the skin by color measurement and macrophotographs when introduced at
the same concentration in a water solution or in Active Powders.
A solution at 1% in water of FDC blue 1 dye and Active Powder containing FDC blue
1 dye at 1% concentration, was applied on the surface of the skin onto two skin
areas, first treated by a lotion (Emulgade CM** at 20% in water) and dried during
10 minutes.
Comparative colorimetric assessment of the pigment on the skin after application
was measured after 3, 18 and 38 minutes and macrophotographs were taken after
5 minutes, 2 hours and 4 hours.
Results:
The disappearance of the FDC blue 1 dye in the upper layers of the epidermis is
represented by changes in color intensity. The colorimetric assessment shows that
after 40 minutes (Figure 1) the intensity of the blue color decreased on the skin
area treated by the Active Powder containing FDC blue 1 dye, but not on the skin
area treated with the solution of the blue dye.
The macrophotographs (Figure 2) confirm this assessment, and after 2 hours the
blue color remains only on the right skin area.
Conclusion:
When encapsulated in the Active Powder, a water-soluble compound is able to penetrate
into the skin.
Ex-vivo demonstration of spontaneous diffusion
This test was conducted to confirm our observation on the spontaneous diffusion
of a water-soluble compound into the skin.
Protocol:
The comparative diffusion of a water solution of FITC (Fluorescein Isothiocyanate)
at 0.1% with FITC encapsulated in Active Powders, 0.1% was observed by microscopic
fluorescence.
At the surface of organotypic cultures of human skin incubated at 37° C with
5% CO2 in DMEM (Dubelcco's Modified Essential Medium), Active Powders containing
FITC and the water solution of FITC were applied.
After freezing, 20µm cross sections were prepared and a microscopic observation
realized (Figure 3).
Results:
FITC in water solution did not penetrate into the skin after 2 hours (Figure 4),
whereas the FITC incorporated in Active Powders diffuses into the upper layers
of the epidermis.
The good substantivity of the hydrophobic polymer used to protect the hydrophilic
part of Active Powders facilitates the spontaneous diffusion of FITC into the
skin and improves the bioavailability of the water soluble compounds.
Conclusion:
The two tests described above confirm the spontaneous diffusion of the active
ingredient from Active Powders to the upper layers of the skin, without the need
for any mechanical rubbing.
The availability of the active ingredient is superior when formulated in Active
Powders, compared to a water solution.
Clinical Study
Protocol:
The efficacy of Active Powders concept was evaluated in a double blind, randomized,
clinical study on 15 female volunteers between 50 and 65 years old with loss of
forearm skin firmness. Treatment was applied twice daily (morning and beginning
of the afternoon) for 6 weeks, with a compact make-up placebo on one forearm and
a compact make-up containing 5% of Active Powders Firmness on the other forearm.
Skin firmness of the 2 forearms was measured before and after 6 week's treatment.
The improvement in skin firmness was quantified by measuring skin fold thickness
and calculating compressibility. An increase in skin compressibility represents
a loss in cutaneous firmness (Figure 5).
| Figure 5:
Principle of skin compressibility measurement |
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Results:
Conclusion:
The firming activity of Active Powder Firmness is demonstrated by these clinical
study results (Figure 6): a 20% improvement of the skin firmness (mean value versus
placebo) after 6 week's treatment with a compact make-up containing 5% of Active
Powder Firmness. This also confirms the bioavailability of the active ingredient
encapsulated in Active Powders, which was already suggested in the two previous
studies of in vivo and ex vivo spontaneous diffusion. Additionally, we also have
demonstrated that our technology is able to withstand the formulation temperature
of this hot poured compact make-up at around 80° C.
Colorimetric study on pressed powder
The introduction of water soluble active ingredients is particularly difficult
in pressed powders, made of a minimum of 90% of solid load, compacted with a maximum
of 10% binding agent. During the compacting phase of a pressed powder, the powder
cake has to withstand a pressure of up to 100 bars.
The authors checked whether our technology was able to support the pressure of
a compacting system. The release of a water soluble dye (FDC blue 1) incorporated
at 1% in Active Powders into the skin when introduced in a loose and pressed powder
(Figure 7) was compared in-vivo. Two concentrations of Active Powders were tested:
5% and 10%; the powder was submitted to 2 pressures (80 and 100 bars).
Figure 7: Protocol
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Conclusion:
The release of FDC blue 1 incorporated in the Active Powder is similar for the
loose and pressed powders.
Active Powders is able to withstand high pressure processes, when incorporated
at 5 or 10% in a powder, and subjected to 80 to 100 bars pressure (Figure 8).
Conclusion
More than a simple new technical development, this innovative technology of Active
Powders opens a new dimension in anhydrous make-up formulations. It allows the
incorporation of a significant amount of water phase containing hydrophilic active
ingredients in a powder.
This technology guarantees the bioavailability of the pre-solubilized ingredient,
which spontaneously diffuses into the upper layers of the skin, where it can perform
its activity. In addition to concealing imperfections and improving skin complexion
through optical effects of pigments, anhydrous color cosmetics offer real skin
care benefits and release active ingredients into the skin, allowing claims such
as anti-aging, whitening, sebum control or moisturization etc.
Today's consumer can enjoy the benefits of powerful skin care active ingredients
in decorative color cosmetics, attractiveness and care combined in one product.
This emergence of a "2 in 1" treatment make-up meets the growing market
demand for multifunctional and convenient products.
Author
Pierre de Pouilly has studied Biochemistry and Organic Chemistry in Paris and
business at the Reims Management and Business School. In his former job at New
Phase Technologies (division of Baker Petrolite Polymers Division in Houston,
Texas) he was responsible for the sales and marketing of synthetic polymers specialties
throughout Europe. In 2002, he joined the Marketing Department of Laboratoires
Sérobiologiques as Senior Product Manager. He is in charge of International
Key Accounts such as L'Oréal, Chanel, and Dior. Since the beginning of
2006 he has been in charge of the sales of active ingredients in the UK and Benelux
areas in addition to the French accounts.
Note 1:
Active™ Powder Eye Light LS 9792 (INCI Name: Water (and) Lauryl Methacrylate
/ Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Panthenol (and)Aesculus
Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract (and)Titanium Dioxide (and) Algae Extract
(and) Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract (and) Centella Asiatica Extract (and) Calendula
Offcinalis Flower Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate);
Active™ Powder Firmness LS 9689 (INCI Name: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lauryl
Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Pisum
Sativum (pea) Extract (and) Titanium Dioxyde (and)Algae Extract (and) Xanthan
Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate); Active™ Powder Honey LS
9723 (INCI Name: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate
Crosspolymer (and) Honey Extract (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Titanium Dioxide
(and) Algae Extract (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate; Active™ Powder
Moist LS 9696 (INCI Name: Water (and) Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate
Crosspolymer (and) Glycerin (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Titanium Dioxyde (and)
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide (and) Gellan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate; Active™ Powder Purity LS 9695 (INCI Name: Water (and)
Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dicaprylyl Ether
(and) Niacinamide (and) Yeast Extract (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut)
Seed Extract (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Algae Extract (and) Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
(and) Panthenol (and)Zinc Gluconate (and) Caffeine (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Biotin; Active™ Powder Volu Lips LS 9773 (INCI
Name: Water (and) Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and)
Glycerin (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea)
Extract (and) Algae Extract (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed (and) Polysaccharide
(and) Gellan Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
Active™ Powder Whiteness LS 9724 (INCI Name: Water (and) Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol
Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and)
Sodium Gluconate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Algae Extract (and) Citric Acid
(and) Sodium Citrate (and) Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract (and) Ferulic Acid (and)
Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
are registered trademarks of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques - Division de
Cognis France.
Emulgade CM, INCI Name: Cetearyl Isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetyl
Palmitate is registered trademark of Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG.
Note 2:
This article was published, entitled "A new technology to bring efficacy
to make-up formulations", authored by Pierre de Pouilly, Philippe Grisoni,
Isabelle Benoit, Véronique Gillon, Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau in Cosmetics
& Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide (2005) 77-80.
A paper with the same title was given at Personal Care Ingredients Asia, March
2005, in Bangkok, Thailand.
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