 | |
Issue
43 — September 2007 |
| | | |
| Issue
43 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Category |
|
Title |
|
Authors |
| |
|
|
|
|
| Market
Report |
|
New
marketing concepts through the use of biomimetic active ingredients: Transfer
of vegetal mechanisms to skin and hair care |
|
Torsten
Clarius*, Philippe Moser**, Olga Freis**, Florence Henry**, Louis Danoux**,
Christine Jeanmaire**, Vincent Bardey**, Gilles Pauly** and Andreas Rathjens** |
Abstract
In 1958, J. E. Steele transferred the knowledge he derived from biology to technical
applications and termed it “bionics“, which today is referred to as
“biomimetics“. Biomimetic approaches targeting cosmetic effects, however,
are not yet widespread.
A famous example of how a biomimetic concept may be realized in industry is based
on the so-called lotus effect. Certain surface structures, for example, as they
occur on the upper side of Lotus flower leaves, prevent germs and dirt particles
from adhering to the leaves of this flower.
This principle may be extended to cosmetics: Proteins extracted from the Moringa
oiltree (Moringa oleifera, „Cleansing tree“) have properties resulting
in a lotus effect. Due to the unusual cationic structure of these proteins, dirt
particles do not adhere on skin or hair surfaces well and may be rinsed off more
easily.
In a biomimetics project carried out at the University of Freiburg, Germany, scientists
are investigating the amazing rehydration capacity of the a so-called “resurrection
plant“, Myrothamnus flabellifolia. Promising components for moisturizing
cosmetic active ingredients may be derived from extracts of this plant.
A further example of a biomimetic cosmetic active ingredient is a product which
is based on a flavonoid fraction from leaves of the candle tree (Senna alata (L.)
Roxb). Here, certain flavonoids play a major role in protecting the candle tree
from the consequences of intense sun radiation. This vegetal protection principle
has been successfully transferred to the field of skin care.
Learning from nature: Biomimicry
Biomimetic principles have been the bases of many innovations, even though developers
may not have known about that fact or about the term “biomimicry”. “Biomimetics”
consists of the word fragments “biology” and “mimicry” (imitation).
Thus, the close observation of nature and subsequent realization of the conclusions
in technical applications is the basic idea behind biomimicry. With this approach,
biomimicry can be regarded as the innovation principle of the stone age: Man used
sparsely modified and processed natural materials and structures. This kind of
methodology lost importance over the milleniums; with growing intelligence, man
succeeded in amazing accomplishments without considering natural paragons. A striking
example is the triumphal procession of the right angle which does not occur in
nature but has become a central element of all human developments. The wheel is
a comparable invention – here, no animal or plant counterpart exists either.
However, modern science is increasingly recognizing the brilliance of natural
materials, building principles or mechanisms. After all, they are the result of
million year’s evolution. Nevertheless, simple copying is usually not successful,
as numerous fallen flight pioneers reflect who have been in the misapprehension
that flying requires feathers and flap. Important principles of biomimicry therefore
are “learning from nature“ (Raoul Heinrich Francé) and “nature
does not provide blueprints“ (Werner Nachtigall). Usually, Leonardo da Vinci
is regarded as the founder of biomimicry, whose conclusions from analyzing nature
were revolutionary, though partly too far ahead of the times.
Thus, today’s biomimicry is the anew merge of nature and technology. The
enhancement of data processing and steering is currently fertilized by neurobiology
and biological cybernetics. Conclusions drawn from photosynthesis are transferred
to hydrogen technology; principles realized in animal dens are used as models
for a higher living comfort at low energy costs.
Biomimetic approaches for skin and hair care applications are still rare. Nevertheless,
the application of biomimicry principles for this field is self-evident. Especially
the floral biodiversity offers a wide variety of biological models that can well
be applied to cosmetics.
The lotus effect
The so-called lotus effect is probably the best known result of a biomimetic approach.
As early as in the late 1970’s, German botanist Wilhelm Barthlott noticed
the phenomenon that lotus flower leaves are never dirty. Therefore, the lotus
flower is regarded as symbol of virginity in Asian religions. In 1989, he picked
up this topic again and recognized a functional principle: Finely dispersed wax
crystals on the leaf surface form a microscopic nap structure. On this surface,
dirt particles can poorly adhere. Additionally, water droplets can hardly wet
this structure so that they simply roll off, dragging along particles – the
leaf remains clean. In this way, the lotus flower achieves two goals: Sun rays
can reach the leaf without being hindered by dirt, and pathogens such as moulds
cannot stick to the surface.
The lotus effect has been realized in various technical applications, e.g. in
roof tiles that do not soil, or in self cleaning wall paints (Lotusan™).
Schott, the German-based technology group, developed an Easy-to-clean™ special
glass based on the lotus effect, e.g. for windows and shower cabins. Villeroy
& Boch used the principle for their Ceramicplus™ bathroom ceramics.
The lotus effect in skin and hair care: Puricare und Purisoft
The principle can be extended to cosmetics: Puricare and Purifsoft contain proteins
extracted from the Moringa oil tree (Moringa oleifera Lam, “Cleansing tree”).
Due to their unusual cationic structure [Gassen HG 1990], these proteins show
a behavior that has the same result as the lotus effect: Dirt particles do not
well adhere on skin or hair surfaces and may be rinsed off more easily.
To demonstrate this effect, skin areas on the forearm were pre-treated in various
ways, using
water (Fig 1a), a placebo lotion (Fig 1b) and the same lotion with an addition
of 1.5 % Purisoft (Fig 1c). Afterwards, standard soil was applied, leaving all
skin areas evenly polluted. An aqueous charcoal dispersion proved to be most suitable.
Then the soil was rinsed off with a soft water jet. A skin area treated with water
could hardly be cleaned (Fig 2a). An area pre-treated with a placebo lotion performed
better (Fig 2b), more particles could be removed. Finally, the significantly best
result was obtained at the area pre-treated with the Purisoft lotion (Fig 2c).
Figure
1: Skin degree
of particle pollution after application of standard soil
Enlarged
version |
The lotus effect can be demonstrated even more impressively on hair. Here, electron
microscopic images were used. At first, hair tresses were washed with a placebo
shampoo or with a shampoo containing 2% Puricare. After washing and drying, model
soil was applied; in this case not as aqueous dispersion but in dry form. Excess
charcoal was removed in a standardized process. The hairs were then observed under
the electron microscope and the surface covered with particles was assessed.
Having washed the hair with a placebo shampoo, particles adhere to the hair fibers
in the same way as unwashed hair, the hair is dirty (Fig 3a; Fig 3b). An addition
of Puricare significantly improves the result, the hair remains cleaner (Fig 3c).
Figure
3: SEM visualization of different treatments of
hair polluted by charcoal particles
|
Control hair
|
Placebo Shampoo
|
Shampoo containing
2 % Puricare™
|
|
This is the first time that anti-particle pollution is offered to both skin and
hair. Moreover, “traditional” anti-chemical pollution, e.g. against
the toxic effects of heavy metals was demonstrated in vitro on human fibroblasts.
Survival strategies of resurrection plants
In a biomimicry project conducted at the University of Freiburg, Germany, scientists
tried to adapt the water flux in plants to technical textiles with high liquid
transportation capacity. Fields for such materials include all applications that
require a quick water evacuation, e.g. in diapers, functional clothes or in fuel
cell technology [Schneider 1999]. In these cases, transport speed caused by simple
capillary forces is not sufficient. Therefore, the amazing rehydration ability
of the resurrection plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw has been investigated
[Schneider 2000].
This species native to South African deserts has developed mechanisms to survive
under extremely harsh climatic conditions. Getting in contact with water after
months of drought, Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw is able to completely regenerate
within hours (Fig 4a and b). An extract of this plant is part of the active ingredient
PA Reviviscence that is perfectly suited for the marketing of moisturizing cosmetic
products [Freis, 2001 and Moussou, 2002] (Fig 5).
Figure
4: Myrothamnus flabellifolia: dehydrated (a) and
rehydrated (b) after 12 hours
|
a) dehydrated
|
b) rehydrated
|
|
Figure
5: Long lasting
moisturizing activity of PA Reviviscence (ex vivo, conductimetry)
Enlarged version
|
Senna alata leaf extract - Vegetal UV protection against skin ageing
Meanwhile, biomimicry goes far beyond simple mechanic and technical applications.
Biological mechanisms may also evaluated with the aid of biomimetic concepts.
In course of searching plants that contain active ingredients applicable for cosmetic
uses, the Brazilian candle tree Senna alata (L.) Roxb (Fig 6), locally also called
Guajava, has been investigated. Microscopic studies of fluorescent reagent reveal
that the epidermis cells of the upper side of the leaves contain high amounts
of the flavonoid kampferol-3-O-sophoroside (K3OS), located in and around the nucleus
and the chloroplasts (Fig 7) [Danoux, 2004]. This substance obviously plays an
important role for the DNA protection of the plant against UV irradiation.
Figure
6: Flowers,
pods and leaves of Senna alata (L.) Roxb
|
Figure
7: CLSM images
of K3OS (green color) localization in Senna alata (L.) Roxb leaf
A: cross section of the leaf
B: epidermis cells (E)
C: nuclei (N) and chloroplasts (Chl) (red)
|
In order to adapt the protective properties of this molecule on human cells, an
extract from the leaves of Senna alata (L.) Roxb (SAE) was prepared and its efficacy
evaluated on human cell nucleus after UVB radiation.
It is known that UVB exposure can cause DNA damages, e.g. by dimerization of thymine
bases juxtaposed on the DNA strand. Such thymine dimers can be visualized by an
immunohistochemical fluorescence method (Fig 8). Application of increasing concentrations
of SAE or the pure isolated K3OS in the culture medium significantly reduces the
occurrence of thymine dimers induced by UVB irradiations in keratinocytes (Fig
8).
Figure
8: Visualization of thymine dimer formation (green
fluorescence) on human keratinocytes after application of SAE or K3OS
and UVB exposure. The obtained green fluorescence was quantified by image
analysis
|
a) Untreated
control culture
|
b) UVB (20 mJ/cm²) |
|
c) UVB + 0.0025%
K3OS
|
d) UVB + 0.015% K3OS |
|
Besides dimerization, UVB radiation can also cause DNA strand breaks. Such DNA
fragments may be visualized by single cell electrophoresis, UVB-induced short
DNA fragments moving through the gel (comet assay technique), producing smeared
images of the nuclei with “comet” tails (Fig 9b). Fragmentation in presence
of SAE is reduced to a minimum, being close to the result of the control (Fig
9c, 9d) [Danoux, 2004].
Figure 9:
Visualization of DNA strand breaks on human keratinocytes after application
of SAE and UVB exposure
Enlarged version |
The efficacy of SAE goes beyond that of simple antioxidants. This active ingredient
does not only protect the DNA, but also supports cell repair. The cellular repair
system is adapted to the extent of the DNA lesions. If the damage exceeds the
natural capacities of repair, the repairing system is turned off. Otherwise, the
cells initiate a program encompassing more than twenty different proteins for
the repair of UV induced lesions. GADD45α is a gene encoding one of these
proteins that coordinate different phases of DNA repair process. Its up-regulation
after SAE treatment of human keratinocytes has been demonstrated by DNA chip technology.
To validate this expression increase, cell cultures were incubated or not with
either SAE or purified K3OS. Total RNA were extracted and GADD45α mRNAs
quantified with Real-Time RT-PCR. Cultures incubated in the presence of SAE or
K3OS demonstrate a strong stimulation of the GADD45α expression, corresponding
to a stimulation of the natural DNA repair. So, as observed in plant cells, K3OS,
which is present in SAE, participates actively in the DNA protection of human
skin cells against the consequence of UV radiation [Danoux 2005].
Figure
10: GADD45α gene expression in human keratinocytes
treated with SAE or K3OS, quantified by real-time RT-PCR
Enlarged
version |
Biomimetic active ingredients as marketing instrumentst
Biomimetic approaches do not only serve as a basis for active ingredient development,
but also for the use in the advertising of final cosmetic products. The basic
biomimetic principle as formulated by historic biomimicry scientist Raoul Heinrich
Francé, “learning from nature”, may be the starting-point for
cosmetic claims and corresponding slogans.
Notes:
Puricare, Purisoft and PA Reviviscence are trademarks of the Cognis Group.
PA Reviviscence LS 9562; INCI Name: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and)
Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide (and) Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Extract
(US) Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and) Tamarindus Indica Extract (and)
Myrothamnus Fabellifolia (EU).
This article was published in SÖFW Journal, 132, 10-2006, pp. 62-20. German
title: Neue Vermarktungskonzepte durch Verwendung biomimetischer Wirkstoffe -
Übertragung pflanzlicher Mechanismen in die Haut- und Haarpflege.
Addresses of the authors:
(*) Cognis GmbH, Henkelstraße 67, D-40551 Düsseldorf, Telefon: +49
(0) 211 7940 7472, Fax: +49 (0) 211 2006 17472
(**) Cognis France, Division Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, 3 rue de Seichamps,
54425 Pulnoy, France
Literature
Armand-Stussi I.; Basocak V.; Pauly G.; McCaulley J.: Moringa Oleifera: an interesting
source of active ingredients for skin and hair care; SÖFW; 2003; Vol 129; No.
9; pp 45-52
Armand-Stussi I.; Basocak V.; Pauly G.: Moringa Oleifera: an interesting source
of active ingredients for skin and hair care; Personal Care - Asia pacific; 2003;
May; pp 7-14
Armand-Stussi I.; Freis O.; Moser P.; Pauly G.: A new source for a new claim:
Moringa proteins, anti-pollution hair care; Euro Cosmetics; 2003; Vol 11; No.
4; pp 19-21
Armand-Stussi I.; Freis O.; Moser P.; Pauly G.: Anti-pollution hair care claims.
Moringa proteins enable formulators to make a new claim for hair care products;
HAPPI; 2002; Vol 39; No. 12; pp 102-106
Barthlott, W. & C. Neinhuis (1997): Purity of the sacred lotus, or escape from
contamination in biological surfaces. Planta 202: 1-8.
Blossey, R. (2003): Self-cleaning surfaces - virtual realities. Nature materials
2: 301-306
Bruse, M., Bechert, D. W., Hage, W., Meyer, R., Hoppe, G., van der Hoeven, J.G.T.
(Technische Hochschule Delft, Holland): Haihaut und Vogelfedern - Strömungsmechanisches
von der Natur lernen, 1999
Cerman, Z., Stosch, A. K. & W. Barthlott (2004): Der Lotus-Effekt?. Selbstreinigende
Oberflächen und ihre Übertragung in die Technik. Biologie in unserer
Zeit 5: 290-296
Freis O.; Moser P.; Henry F.; Danoux L.; Pauly-Florentiny M.; Guezennec A.; Guesnet
J.; Pauly G.: Reviviscence LS, a new active ingredient from resurrection plants
for skin cells protection , IFSCC International Conference, 2001, Taipei, pp 133-148
Land, M. F.: 2000 J. Opt. A: Pure Appl. Opt. 2 R44-R50
Mattheck, C.: Warum alles kaputt geht - Form und Versagen in Natur und Technik,
Verlag Forschungszentrum Karlsruhe, 2003
Mattheck, C.: Design in der Natur - Der Baum als Lehrmeister. Freiburg 1997
Moussou P. ; Danoux L. ; Pauly-Florentiny M. ; Guezennec A. ; Guesnet J.; Pauly
G.: A new synergistic active ingredient from resurrection plants and LEA proteins
for skin protection 22nd IFSCC International Congress, 2002, Edinburgh, Poster
162 Nachtigall, W.: Vorbild Natur. Bionik-Design für funktionelles Gestalten.
Heidelberg 1997
Nachtigall, W.: Bionik. 2nd edition, Heidelberg 2002
Nachtigall, W. (ed.) bzw. Nachtigall, W., Wisser, A. (eds.): Technische Biologie
und Bionik 1, 2, 3, 4 - BIONA-report 8, 9, 10, 12. Stuttgart 1992, 1995, 1996,
1998
Nachtigall, W., Blüchel, K.G.: Das große Buch der Bionik - Neue Technologien
nach dem Vorbild der Natur. Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt, Stuttgart 2001
Schneider, H., Thürmer, F., Zhu, J.J., Wistuba, N., Gessner, P., Lindner,
K., Herrmann, B., Zimmermann, G., Hartung, W., Bentrup, F.-W. & Zimmermann, U.
(1999): Diurnal changes in xylem pressure of the hydrated resurrection plant Myrothamnus
flabellifolia: evidence for lipid bodies in conducting xylem vessels. - New Phytol.,
143: 471- 484
Schneider, H., Wistuba, N., Wagner, H.-J., Thürmer, F. & Zimmermann, U. (2000):
Water rise kinetics in refilling xylem after desiccation in a resurrection plant.
- New Phytol., 148: 221-238
Danoux L ; Jeanmaire C ; Bardey V ; Henry F ; Moser P ; Freis O ; Gauché
D ; Pauly G : The genome of skin cells : a central target for full protection
from oxidative stress and photo-aging. 23rd IFSCC International Congress, 2004,
Orlando, 11-15
Danoux L ; Jeanmaire C ; Bardey V ; Périé G ; Vazquez Duchene MD
; Gillon V ; Henry F ; Moser P ; Pauly G. (2005): Protecting the genome of skin
cells from oxidative stress and photoaging. - Cosmetics & Toiletries, 120:63-72
Gassen HG ; Gassenschmidt U ; Jany KD ; Tauscher B ; Wolf S (1990): Isolation
and chemical characterization of flocculant-active proteins from Moringa oleifera
Lam - Biological Chemistry Hoppe-Seyler, 760
Author
Dr. Torsten Clarius received his PhD from Julius Maximilian University of Würzburg,
Germany, Department of Anorganic Chemistry. From 1996-1999 he was in charge of
the distribution of raw materials of cosmetics and cleansing products at C. H.
Erbslöh KG, chemical trading in Krefeld, Germany, focussing on active ingredients.
In 2000, he assumed responsibility at Cognis GmbH, Düsseldorf, for distributing
and marketing active ingredients of Cognis' French subsidiary Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
in Northern and Eastern Europe.
