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| Market Report | New marketing concepts through the use of biomimetic active ingredients: Transfer of vegetal mechanisms to skin and hair care | Torsten Clarius*, Philippe Moser**, Olga Freis**, Florence Henry**, Louis Danoux**, Christine Jeanmaire**, Vincent Bardey**, Gilles Pauly** and Andreas Rathjens** |
Abstract
In 1958, J. E. Steele transferred the knowledge he derived from biology to technical applications and termed it “bionics“, which today is referred to as “biomimetics“. Biomimetic approaches targeting cosmetic effects, however, are not yet widespread.
A famous example of how a biomimetic concept may be realized in industry is based on the so-called lotus effect. Certain surface structures, for example, as they occur on the upper side of Lotus flower leaves, prevent germs and dirt particles from adhering to the leaves of this flower.
This principle may be extended to cosmetics: Proteins extracted from the Moringa oiltree (Moringa oleifera, „Cleansing tree“) have properties resulting in a lotus effect. Due to the unusual cationic structure of these proteins, dirt particles do not adhere on skin or hair surfaces well and may be rinsed off more easily.
In a biomimetics project carried out at the University of Freiburg, Germany, scientists are investigating the amazing rehydration capacity of the a so-called “resurrection plant“, Myrothamnus flabellifolia. Promising components for moisturizing cosmetic active ingredients may be derived from extracts of this plant.
A further example of a biomimetic cosmetic active ingredient is a product which is based on a flavonoid fraction from leaves of the candle tree (Senna alata (L.) Roxb). Here, certain flavonoids play a major role in protecting the candle tree from the consequences of intense sun radiation. This vegetal protection principle has been successfully transferred to the field of skin care.
Learning from nature: Biomimicry
Biomimetic principles have been the bases of many innovations, even though developers may not have known about that fact or about the term “biomimicry”. “Biomimetics” consists of the word fragments “biology” and “mimicry” (imitation). Thus, the close observation of nature and subsequent realization of the conclusions in technical applications is the basic idea behind biomimicry. With this approach, biomimicry can be regarded as the innovation principle of the stone age: Man used sparsely modified and processed natural materials and structures. This kind of methodology lost importance over the milleniums; with growing intelligence, man succeeded in amazing accomplishments without considering natural paragons. A striking example is the triumphal procession of the right angle which does not occur in nature but has become a central element of all human developments. The wheel is a comparable invention – here, no animal or plant counterpart exists either.
However, modern science is increasingly recognizing the brilliance of natural materials, building principles or mechanisms. After all, they are the result of million year’s evolution. Nevertheless, simple copying is usually not successful, as numerous fallen flight pioneers reflect who have been in the misapprehension that flying requires feathers and flap. Important principles of biomimicry therefore are “learning from nature“ (Raoul Heinrich Francé) and “nature does not provide blueprints“ (Werner Nachtigall). Usually, Leonardo da Vinci is regarded as the founder of biomimicry, whose conclusions from analyzing nature were revolutionary, though partly too far ahead of the times.
Thus, today’s biomimicry is the anew merge of nature and technology. The enhancement of data processing and steering is currently fertilized by neurobiology and biological cybernetics. Conclusions drawn from photosynthesis are transferred to hydrogen technology; principles realized in animal dens are used as models for a higher living comfort at low energy costs.
Biomimetic approaches for skin and hair care applications are still rare. Nevertheless, the application of biomimicry principles for this field is self-evident. Especially the floral biodiversity offers a wide variety of biological models that can well be applied to cosmetics.
The lotus effect
The so-called lotus effect is probably the best known result of a biomimetic approach. As early as in the late 1970’s, German botanist Wilhelm Barthlott noticed the phenomenon that lotus flower leaves are never dirty. Therefore, the lotus flower is regarded as symbol of virginity in Asian religions. In 1989, he picked up this topic again and recognized a functional principle: Finely dispersed wax crystals on the leaf surface form a microscopic nap structure. On this surface, dirt particles can poorly adhere. Additionally, water droplets can hardly wet this structure so that they simply roll off, dragging along particles – the leaf remains clean. In this way, the lotus flower achieves two goals: Sun rays can reach the leaf without being hindered by dirt, and pathogens such as moulds cannot stick to the surface.
The lotus effect has been realized in various technical applications, e.g. in roof tiles that do not soil, or in self cleaning wall paints (Lotusan™). Schott, the German-based technology group, developed an Easy-to-clean™ special glass based on the lotus effect, e.g. for windows and shower cabins. Villeroy & Boch used the principle for their Ceramicplus™ bathroom ceramics.
The lotus effect in skin and hair care: Puricare und Purisoft
The principle can be extended to cosmetics: Puricare and Purifsoft contain proteins extracted from the Moringa oil tree (Moringa oleifera Lam, “Cleansing tree”). Due to their unusual cationic structure [Gassen HG 1990], these proteins show a behavior that has the same result as the lotus effect: Dirt particles do not well adhere on skin or hair surfaces and may be rinsed off more easily.
To demonstrate this effect, skin areas on the forearm were pre-treated in various ways, using
water (Fig 1a), a placebo lotion (Fig 1b) and the same lotion with an addition of 1.5 % Purisoft (Fig 1c). Afterwards, standard soil was applied, leaving all skin areas evenly polluted. An aqueous charcoal dispersion proved to be most suitable. Then the soil was rinsed off with a soft water jet. A skin area treated with water could hardly be cleaned (Fig 2a). An area pre-treated with a placebo lotion performed better (Fig 2b), more particles could be removed. Finally, the significantly best result was obtained at the area pre-treated with the Purisoft lotion (Fig 2c).
Figure
1: Skin degree
of particle pollution after application of standard soil
Enlarged version |
Figure
2: Skin degree of particle pollution after rinse
Enlarged version |
The lotus effect can be demonstrated even more impressively on hair. Here, electron microscopic images were used. At first, hair tresses were washed with a placebo shampoo or with a shampoo containing 2% Puricare. After washing and drying, model soil was applied; in this case not as aqueous dispersion but in dry form. Excess charcoal was removed in a standardized process. The hairs were then observed under the electron microscope and the surface covered with particles was assessed.
Having washed the hair with a placebo shampoo, particles adhere to the hair fibers in the same way as unwashed hair, the hair is dirty (Fig 3a; Fig 3b). An addition of Puricare significantly improves the result, the hair remains cleaner (Fig 3c).
Figure
3: SEM visualization of different treatments of hair polluted
by charcoal particles
|
This is the first time that anti-particle pollution is offered to both skin and hair. Moreover, “traditional” anti-chemical pollution, e.g. against the toxic effects of heavy metals was demonstrated in vitro on human fibroblasts.
Survival strategies of resurrection plants
In a biomimicry project conducted at the University of Freiburg, Germany, scientists tried to adapt the water flux in plants to technical textiles with high liquid transportation capacity. Fields for such materials include all applications that require a quick water evacuation, e.g. in diapers, functional clothes or in fuel cell technology [Schneider 1999]. In these cases, transport speed caused by simple capillary forces is not sufficient. Therefore, the amazing rehydration ability of the resurrection plant Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw has been investigated [Schneider 2000].
This species native to South African deserts has developed mechanisms to survive under extremely harsh climatic conditions. Getting in contact with water after months of drought, Myrothamnus flabellifolia Welw is able to completely regenerate within hours (Fig 4a and b). An extract of this plant is part of the active ingredient PA Reviviscence that is perfectly suited for the marketing of moisturizing cosmetic products [Freis, 2001 and Moussou, 2002] (Fig 5).
Figure
4: Myrothamnus flabellifolia: dehydrated (a) and rehydrated (b)
after 12 hours
|
Figure 5: Long lasting moisturizing activity
of PA Reviviscence (ex vivo, conductimetry) Enlarged version |
Senna alata leaf extract - Vegetal UV protection against skin ageing
Meanwhile, biomimicry goes far beyond simple mechanic and technical applications. Biological mechanisms may also evaluated with the aid of biomimetic concepts. In course of searching plants that contain active ingredients applicable for cosmetic uses, the Brazilian candle tree Senna alata (L.) Roxb (Fig 6), locally also called Guajava, has been investigated. Microscopic studies of fluorescent reagent reveal that the epidermis cells of the upper side of the leaves contain high amounts of the flavonoid kampferol-3-O-sophoroside (K3OS), located in and around the nucleus and the chloroplasts (Fig 7) [Danoux, 2004]. This substance obviously plays an important role for the DNA protection of the plant against UV irradiation.
Figure 6: Flowers, pods and leaves of Senna
alata (L.) Roxb
|
| Figure
7: CLSM images
of K3OS (green color) localization in Senna alata (L.) Roxb leaf A: cross section of the leaf B: epidermis cells (E) C: nuclei (N) and chloroplasts (Chl) (red)
|
In order to adapt the protective properties of this molecule on human cells, an extract from the leaves of Senna alata (L.) Roxb (SAE) was prepared and its efficacy evaluated on human cell nucleus after UVB radiation.
It is known that UVB exposure can cause DNA damages, e.g. by dimerization of thymine bases juxtaposed on the DNA strand. Such thymine dimers can be visualized by an immunohistochemical fluorescence method (Fig 8). Application of increasing concentrations of SAE or the pure isolated K3OS in the culture medium significantly reduces the occurrence of thymine dimers induced by UVB irradiations in keratinocytes (Fig 8).
Figure
8: Visualization of thymine dimer formation (green fluorescence)
on human keratinocytes after application of SAE or K3OS
and UVB exposure. The obtained green fluorescence was quantified by
image analysis
|
Besides dimerization, UVB radiation can also cause DNA strand breaks. Such DNA fragments may be visualized by single cell electrophoresis, UVB-induced short DNA fragments moving through the gel (comet assay technique), producing smeared images of the nuclei with “comet” tails (Fig 9b). Fragmentation in presence of SAE is reduced to a minimum, being close to the result of the control (Fig 9c, 9d) [Danoux, 2004].
Figure 9: Visualization
of DNA strand breaks on human keratinocytes after application of SAE
and UVB exposure Enlarged version |
The efficacy of SAE goes beyond that of simple antioxidants. This active ingredient does not only protect the DNA, but also supports cell repair. The cellular repair system is adapted to the extent of the DNA lesions. If the damage exceeds the natural capacities of repair, the repairing system is turned off. Otherwise, the cells initiate a program encompassing more than twenty different proteins for the repair of UV induced lesions. GADD45α is a gene encoding one of these proteins that coordinate different phases of DNA repair process. Its up-regulation after SAE treatment of human keratinocytes has been demonstrated by DNA chip technology. To validate this expression increase, cell cultures were incubated or not with either SAE or purified K3OS. Total RNA were extracted and GADD45α mRNAs quantified with Real-Time RT-PCR. Cultures incubated in the presence of SAE or K3OS demonstrate a strong stimulation of the GADD45α expression, corresponding to a stimulation of the natural DNA repair. So, as observed in plant cells, K3OS, which is present in SAE, participates actively in the DNA protection of human skin cells against the consequence of UV radiation [Danoux 2005].
Figure 10: GADD45α
gene expression in human keratinocytes treated with SAE or K3OS, quantified
by real-time RT-PCR
Enlarged version |
Biomimetic active ingredients as marketing instrumentst
Biomimetic approaches do not only serve as a basis for active ingredient development, but also for the use in the advertising of final cosmetic products. The basic biomimetic principle as formulated by historic biomimicry scientist Raoul Heinrich Francé, “learning from nature”, may be the starting-point for cosmetic claims and corresponding slogans.
Notes:
Puricare, Purisoft and PA Reviviscence are trademarks of the Cognis Group.
PA Reviviscence LS 9562; INCI Name: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and) Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide (and) Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Extract (US) Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and) Tamarindus Indica Extract (and) Myrothamnus Fabellifolia (EU).
This article was published in SÖFW Journal, 132, 10-2006, pp. 62-20. German title: Neue Vermarktungskonzepte durch Verwendung biomimetischer Wirkstoffe - Übertragung pflanzlicher Mechanismen in die Haut- und Haarpflege.
Addresses of the authors:
(*) Cognis GmbH, Henkelstraße 67, D-40551 Düsseldorf, Telefon: +49 (0) 211 7940 7472, Fax: +49 (0) 211 2006 17472
(**) Cognis France, Division Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, 3 rue de Seichamps, 54425 Pulnoy, France
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Author
Dr. Torsten Clarius received his PhD from Julius Maximilian University of Würzburg, Germany, Department of Anorganic Chemistry. From 1996-1999 he was in charge of the distribution of raw materials of cosmetics and cleansing products at C. H. Erbslöh KG, chemical trading in Krefeld, Germany, focussing on active ingredients. In 2000, he assumed responsibility at Cognis GmbH, Düsseldorf, for distributing and marketing active ingredients of Cognis' French subsidiary Laboratoires Sérobiologiques in Northern and Eastern Europe.
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