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| Issue 45 |  |
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| Category | Title | Authors | ||
| Newsletter | Perception, measurement and visualization of cosmetic effects | Dr. Torsten Clarius *, Olga Freis PhD**, Dominique Gauché**, Marie-Danielle Vazquez-Duchêne PhD**, Marie-France Zambaux PhD**, Gilles Pauly M.D.** and Andreas Rathjens PhD** |
Abstract
Currently, percentages are often used to convey a performance of cosmetic products to the consumer. Such figures are derived from in vitro or in vivo studies and the clinical tests which are performed are either based on objective measurements or on subjective assessments made by volunteers. However, if products are only differentiated by percentages, the advertising options will be reduced in their variety and a comparability of different formulations will be furthermore suggested.
Although the efficiency of product formulations may be defined by numerical values, results from scientific studies can also be conveyed in a visual manner. As we perceive our environment mostly optically, this approach is gaining growing importance. Modern measuring equipment linked with high-capacity image analysis tools are a prerequisite to realize this appproach. Thus, two-dimensional images can be extended by an additional dimension, which largely corresponds with real human perception. The animation of such three-dimensional images is even more spectacular, because complicated mechanisms of action can be processed in a way that may be effectively used in advertising.
Perception
The five senses are the powers of the body by which a person receives knowledge of things in the world around him. Hans Markart has painted the five senses at the end of the 19th century, see Figure 1.
 Figure 1: The five senses, drawing by Hans Makart, 1872-1879 |
These are usually sight, hearing, smell, taste and touch. The process of human perception is schematically described in the so-called chain of perception. This model describes the processing of stimuli which occur outside of a person in contrast to an inner perception such as the sense of balance. This is also called „distal stimulus”.
The significance of visual perceptions in the print media
The five senses of a person are in charge of recording distal stimuli. The performances of such distal stimuli may differ largely. In accordance with evolutionary history, the hunter is dominated by his visual perception. Interestingly, the eyes of a person can perceive about 1 million bits, while the sense of touch may perform 1 million bits. The senses of hearing and smell each make up for 100.000 bits, and the sense of taste only 1.000 bits. This central role of visual perception has led to the fact that advertising predominantly tries to reach the consumer on this level.
This explains why the part of an advertisement which draws our attention is called eye-catcher. By measuring eye movements it can be confirmed that certain parts of a picture are more intensively looked at. Marketing agencies have made use of such findings of the psychology of perception. Faces are the major eye-catching elements. Accordingly, we behave in a way which is probably inherent to humans: To recognize faces, we first look at the eyes and then at the mouth. Only then our look goes down further. This order occurs schematically and involuntarily. It explains why promoted products in an ad are placed near the eyes or the mouth.
In cosmetics, the promise of the good performance of a product plays a major role. In the course of time, the way of communicating the performance of a product to customers has changed massively. Some years ago, product effects were communicated on a language-level, but lately this has changed to working with percentages to describe the effects which can be achieved with cosmetics. With this suggested comparability of products a new kind of competition was initiated. Of course, producers could not claim smaller percentages than their competitors and thus values were created which became more and more sensational.
This inflation of percentages was only possible because of a detachment from the results achieved by objective measurements. Evaluations of subjective interviews of test persons often led to values beyond a 90 percent approval. In vitro studies yield similarly high values, which may for instance be used to substantiate a doubling of the collagen synthesis (Figure 2).
 Enlarged version Figure 2: Stimulation of the collagen (I) synthesis in a fibroblast culture, active agent: acetyl-tetrapeptide-9 (DERMICAN™) |
This type of advertising inevitably leads to a dead end-situation. In order to distinguish themselves from the competitor, marketers are now forced to find new ways of advertising. In a series of current ads in the print media, a withdrawal from the dramatic percentages is recognizable which, if mentioned at all, disappear in the continuous text.
The information level stays very low but the performance of a body care product is represented in a striking way by means of distinctive visualization.
Modern visualization methods
A concise representation of a cosmetic effect requires efficient visualization techniques and superimposing graphics programs. A simple approach is to document the performance of a product by taking pictures at the beginning and after an application. This includes an exact definition of the photographic conditions, such as identical exposures of light and high-resolution digital cameras. Instantaneous and long-term effects, for example, achieved in the region of the eye can thus be optimally visualized. Not only may visualization techniques be used to quantify the performance of a product but also to put more emphasis on its performance (Figure 5).
 Enlarged version |
 Enlarged version |
| a) Before application of product | b) 2 hours after application of a serum with 10 % LIFTENSYL™ |
| Figure 3: Visualization of an immediate effect via digital photography | |
 Enlarged version |
 Enlarged version |
| a) Before application of product | b) After a two-month application of a cream with 3 % PRODEJINE™ |
| Figure 4: Visualization of a long-term effect via digital photography | |
 Enlarged version |
 Enlarged version |
| a) Before application of product | b) After a two-month application of a cream with 3 % PRODEJINE™ |
| Figure 5: Visualization of a long-term effect via digital photography, combined with a visualization method | |
A stronger enlargement, e.g. by means of a video lens or by usage of a confocal laser microscope, allows an exact focus on the problematic region (Figures 6, 7).
 Enlarged version |
 Enlarged version |
| a) Before application of product | b) After a three-week application of a cream with 1 % MYOXINOL™ |
| Figure 6: Visualization of the reduction of wrinkle depth by means of a video lens (25° exposure of light on replica) | |
 Enlarged version |
 Enlarged version |
| a) Before application of product | b) After a four-week application of a cream with 10 % VEGESERYL™ HGP |
| Figure 7: Visualization of the reduction of wrinkle-depth by confocal laser microscopy | |
FOITS (Fast Optical In vivo Topometry of Skin) is one of the most modern methods for representing surfaces (1). This method allows to measure the profile of skin surfaces, replicas of skin surfaces and even of hair. Its advantage lies in a very short recording time and in a touch-free recording method which largely excludes artefacts. With this method, a striped pattern is projected on the skin’s surface. In dependence on the surface structure, the individual stripes form bends. This modified striped pattern is recorded by a CCD camera and submitted to a computer for data processing. Suitable algorithms allow a transformation of the data into digital graphics in many different ways. Digital graphics may be colored in many different ways and represented in a three-dimensional way (Figure 8).
 Enlarged version |
| A,
B) 2D Surface representation, before/ after an eight-week application
of a cream with 3 % SLIMFIT™ (top view) C, D) 3D Surface representation, before/ after an eight-week application of a cream with 3 % SLIMFIT™ (surface) E, F) Profile representation, before/ after an eight-week application of a cream with 3 % SLIMFIT™ |
| Figure 8: Visualization of reduction of orange peel skin by means of FOITS |
This technique also enables a detailed representation of the three-dimensional form of a small wrinkle in the region of the angle of the eye (Figure 9). Here, green was chosen as a color for the skin’s surface on the computer and blue was used to color the depression of the small wrinkle. Various evaluations help understand the topography of this skin structure and by means of calculations it is possible to look at the isolated wrinkle from different angles (2).
  
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| A:
Top view B: Profile with volume C: Surface D: Depression after 90° rotation E: Asymmetry after 90° rotation |
| Figure 9: Three-dimensional visualization of a small wrinkle in the region of the angle of the eye by FOITS |
By means of using the appropriate software, digitally-processed images allow three-dimensional representations which are animated, i.e. can be moved freely in space. These presentations are particularly striking because they are very close to real perception. A presentation of objective test results may be used beyond the print media and can be applied in advertising with moving picture, such as on television or on video screens.
It is rather complicated to make a two-dimensional representation of the complicated structure of the elastic fiber network in the dermis (3, 4). A major approach to understand these microscopic structures is a three-dimensional animation, in which the skin diagram is rotated.
| Figure 10: Three-dimensional (animated) visualization of the dermal fiber network |
Prospects
The changed advertising for cosmetic products requires an adaptation of technologies which are able to document the efficacy of skin and body care products. Modern visualization techniques not only help to improve the quantitative evaluation of test results but also lead to more convincing presentations targeted at the consumer. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques is steadily increasing this competence in its „Advanced Imagery & Multimedia“ division which has been established for this purpose. Three-dimensional animations of detailed dermal structures and of individual cells which do not fail to make their impressions on the consumer may be created. These are suitable for generally understandable presentations of deeply scientific topics and may contribute to credibility on the part of the cosmetic manufacturer.
Notes:
Dermican, Liftensyl, Prodejine, Myoxinol, Vegeseryl HGP, and Slimfit are trademarks of the Cognis Group.
INCI name:
DERMICAN™ Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
LIFTENSYL™ Soy Protein Phthalate
PRODEJINE™ Mannitol (and) Cyclodextrin (and) Yeast Extract (and) Disodium Succinate (US) Mannitol (and) Cyclodextrin (and) Faex Extract (and) Disodium Succinate
MYOXINOL™ Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (and) Dextrin
VEGESERYL™ HGP Glycine Soja Protein
SLIMFIT™ Cecropia Obtusa Extract
A presentation entitled „Augen-Blicke: Wahrnehmung, Messung und Visualisierung kosmetischer Effekte“ was given by the author during the 54th SEPAWA Congress and European Detergents Conference, Würzburg, Germany (October 10-12, 2007).
References:
1. Rohr M, Brandt M and Schrader A, Skin surface-claim support by FOITS. SÖFW Journal,
126, 8, 2-11, (2000).
2. Vazquez Duchene, Gillon V, Freis O, Perie G, Gauche D, Zambaux MF, Pauly G, Cosmetic Science Technology, 96-98 (2004).
3. Jeanmaire C, Danoux L and Pauly G, British Journal of Dermatology, 145, 10-18, (2001).
4. Contet-Audonneau JL, Jeanmaire C and Pauly G, British Journal of Dermatology, 140, 1038-1047, (1999).
Authors
Dr. Torsten Clarius *, Olga Freis PhD**, Dominique Gauché**, Marie-Danielle Vazquez-Duchêne PhD**, Marie-France Zambaux PhD**, Gilles Pauly M.D.** and Andreas Rathjens PhD**
(*) Cognis GmbH, Henkelstrasse 67, D-40551 Düsseldorf, Phone: +49 (0) 211 7940 7472, Fax: +49 (0) 211 2006 17472
(**) Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Division de Cognis France, 3, rue de Seichamps, F-54425 Pulnoy, Tel: +33 (0)3 83 29 08 02, Fax : +33 (0)3 83 21 12 15
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