| Search | Feedback | Contents | Deutsch |
 |
| Issue 47 |  |
|||
| Printable version | ||||
| Category | Title | Authors | ||
| Newsletter | BB cream - The Korean beauty trend |
Lifestyle
“Convenient & chic” is an urban lifestyle in Korea: an easy, but stylish way to lead a busy life.
 |
 |
If you look around the streets in Korea, you will see savvy people using technology such as smart-phones to take photos while shopping, surf the web for information or keep in with friends via social networks. These advanced peer-to-peer marketing tools play an important role in the purchasing process, and influence people’s choice of cosmetics.
What is BB Cream?
Nowadays, blemish balm (BB) cream is seen as an iconic cosmetic product because it reflects the Korean beauty culture in several ways. BB cream is essentially a tinted moisturizer that provides light coverage while caring for your skin.
Originally from Germany - cultivated in Korea
The first type of blemish balm was launched in Germany under the Dr. Schrammek brand and was primarily used for skin regeneration and protection after peeling. It was unofficially introduced into Korea in the late 1970s by nurses who went to work in Germany during the late 1960s. BB cream was officially brought into the country in 1983, but was mainly available from dermatology clinics and aesthetic centers, until there were rumors that TV stars had started to use BB cream for cosmetic reasons.
A matter of time and convenience
Doing things quickly has been a key part of the Korean culture ever since the country had to work quickly to grow the economy after the devastating effects of the Korean War in the early 1950s. Korean people are generally seen as impatient and expect to be served promptly. This fast-paced lifestyle is relevant to the beauty industry: studies have shown that Korean women tend to spend less time on their beauty regimes than Japanese women, and because of this, they look for convenient beauty-care products. They feel uncomfortable going out without make-up, but are wary about looking artificial from the wrong sort of decorative cosmetics.
 |
Well-cared for skin and a natural look
BB cream was brought to the Korean market to fulfill consumers’ demands for a natural nude look. The makers differentiated it from existing products like liquid foundation and make-up base by emphasizing its caring properties such as whitening, anti-ageing and sun protection and the fact that it created a color that was suitable for Asian skin. BB cream became popular thanks to word-of-mouth recommendation and was soon widely accepted as a mainstream beauty product for women of all ages, and even men.
 Natural, the "nude skin" look |
||
| Whitening |  |
Anti-ageing |
| Moisturizing | Sun protection | |
| Light texture & Fine tuning Asian complexion |
Usage
BB cream is used after cleansing and applying skin lotion. As BB cream contains moisturizers and sunscreen, these do not need to be applied separately. To create the perfect look, it should be topped off with a light powder foundation or loose powder and make-up.
Gaining acceptance from Korean beauty concept
 |
 |
 |
The cosmetics & toiletries market in Korea successfully survived the financial crisis in early 2000 and the market has since grown. Korean traditional herbal (韓方) cosmetics experienced particular growth, driven by the wellness, natural beauty and inside out trends. In 2008, herbal cosmetics made up 22 percent of the Korean cosmetic market. Because people were already aware of the benefits of Korean traditional herbal cosmetics, BB cream was readily accepted by Korean consumers, as it was shown to provide similar benefits for Korean skin. Following its success in Korea, BB cream was also launched in Japan, where it became just as popular (see Figure 1). A survey carried out during the 2009 Beautyworld Japan trade fair showed that Korean BB cream was the most popular key word in the 2008 cosmetics market in Japan.
| Figure 1: Japan BB Cream Market Size |
 |
Tapping overseas markets
BB cream is now also found in the USA and other Asian countries, where it has become popular thanks to speculation that a number of soap opera and pop stars wear it. Many young consumers try to imitate the look of their heroes, such as stars in TV series “Boys Over Flowers” or singers of “Girls Generation” and “2NE1”.
BB cream market and evolution
Since BB cream was launched to the mass market, it has evolved in terms of concepts, target consumers, formats and distribution channels. Many BB creams offer more than one function, such as whitening and anti-ageing, moisturizing and UV protection which can be combined in 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 concepts.
Target groups have become wider, and BB cream is now aimed at women of all ages, and even men. It is most commonly available as a lotion based on W/O or O/W emulsion technology, but a water-based mousse version of BB cream that feels light on the skin was also launched by Amorepacific in 2010. The BB concept is also available as a compact two-way cake (powder foundation) and a concealer, for a more decorative coverage, and BB cleansing oil has also been launched. Figure 2 shows the market share held by BB cream brands in Korea during the first half of 2010.
| Figure 2: BB Cream Brand M/S in Korea |
 |
Some international brands recently joined the BB cream market as follows:
- Lancôme UV Expert SPF50 GN-Shield™ BB BASE
- Laroche-Posay Melt-in BB cream SPF 50 PA +++ Uvidea xl
- The Body Shop Moisture White Shiso SPF 25 PA +++
- L'Oréal Dermo-Expertise White Perfect Transparent Rosy Glow BB Cream SPF20 PA++
- Maybelline Pure Mineral BB Base SPF 26 PA +++
- Estée Lauder CyberWhite EX Extra Intensive BB Crème multi-action formula SPF 35
- MAC Prep+Prime BB (Beauty Balm) UVA/UVB SPF35 PA+++
- Christian Dior, Diorsnow UV shield BB cream White reveal UV protection SPF 50 PA +++
- Clinique age defence BB cream SPF 30 /PA +++
Cognis’ BB cream concept
Activities:
Cognis participated in FormulaCare i-2010 in Manila, Philippines focusing on BB cream technology transfer and demonstrating hands-on formulations know-how (Figure 3).
Figure 3: Regional Connection & Development manager Asia Pacific, Sanguk Choi demonstrated lab-scale production of BB cream and gave detailed technical tips.
 |
Moisture and radiance BB
Formulating BB cream is challenging because several important technical factors need to be considered, such as using the right combination of pigments for Asian skin, achieving a homogeneous emulsion system containing high amount of pigments and ensuring that the product has the right sensory properties.
A good example for the Cognis’ BB project is the following O/W concept: it focuses on achieving both long-term emulsion stability and the right sensory properties. Korean consumers expect cosmetic products to leave the skin feeling moisturized. They even have a term to describe this light, smooth and moisturized sensation: chock chock (촉촉). The happy emollient, Cetiol® SenSoft (INCI: Propylheptyl Caprylate) is an effective silicone alternative that delivers a light, silky feel while offering long-lasting softness and generating positive emotions (Figure 4). And the emulsifier combination of Eumulgin® BA 25 (INCI: Beheneth-25) and Lameform® TGI (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate) offers a long-term stability when used with pigments.
Figure 4: Sensory Evaluation of Cetiol® SenSoft Pillow Talk
 |
The pigments used depend on the emulsion system: e.g. untreated (uncoated) pigments are used for O/W emulsions, as they are hydrophilic and need to be dispersed homogenously in the emulsion, while for W/O or W/Si BB cream, it is recommended to use hydrophobically coated pigments, which can be dispersed in the oil phase.
Protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays is essential to prevent photo-aging and to maintain a healthy and beautiful looking skin. A balanced UVA and UVB protection is achieved by formulating photo-stable and broad-spectrum UV filters, such as Tinosorb® M, Uvinul® A plus and Uvinul® N 539 T from BASF.
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of the Care Chemicals unit, has formulated the following active ingredients for use in cosmetics that wish to offer certain benefits:
Litchiderm™ LS 9704 (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Litchi Chinensis Extract) is a holistic ingredient recommended for use in well-being products, as it offers long-lasting moisturization (ex-vivo study) and a brighter and more radiant complexion (clinical study).
Photonyl™ LS (INCI: Arginine (and) Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate (and) Mannitol (and) Pyridoxine HCl ) is a biotechnological active complex formulated as a cyto-immuno photo protector for use in BB daily suncare products.
Hyalurosmooth™ LS (INCI: Aqua (and) Cassia Angustifolia Extract) is a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid with excellent sensorial properties.
Table: Moisture & Radiance BB (SPF 25, PA+++)* UVA-PF/SPF > 1/3
(SC/KR/09/BBS20-6)
Enlarged version
The trademarks symbolized with a ® or ™ are either property of or licensed to BASF SE or Cognis and registered and / or applied for registration in relevant countries. Other product names and trademarks mentioned may belong to third parties.
Manufacturing Instruction
Part C (pigment base) should be pre-dispersed with a strong mixer. (“Waring Blender 7012 BU” model)
Dissolve part A and part B at 78°C.
Add part A to part B and mix with TK homo mixer for 5 min at 6,000 rpm.
Add the pre-dispersed part C to the base and mix with TK homo mixer for 10 min at 5,500 rpm.
(at this stage, temp shouldn’t be below 6°C)
Cooling the base to 50°C while gentle mixing.
Add part D to the base and mix with TK homo mixer for 5 min at 5,500 rpm.
Cooling the base to 27°C while gentle mixing.
Technical Data
pH Value: 7.8
Viscosity (Viscosity (Helipath T-C, 25°C, 12 rpm ): 26,000 mPas
References
1. Global Ingredients & Formulations Guide 2008, Improving Product Sensory Characteristics - The „Happy Emollient“; Yeah-Young Baek
2. http://www.dailycosmetic.com
3. Cosmetic Mania News
4. http://www.schrammek.co.kr
5. Fujikeizai
6. Mintel global new products database
Authors
Yeah-Young Baek
Global marketing manager, Personal Care, Germany
Ms. Yeah-Young Baek holds a master’s degree in biotechnology. She started with Henkel Korea in 1997 as sales manager for cosmetic ingredients. Since 2002 she has been responsible for the marketing of personal care products at Cognis Care Chemicals division, both in the Asia Pacific region and globally. In 2010 she returned to Germany to strengthen the global marketing team for Cognis, which is now part of the BASF group.
Sanguk Choi
Regional Connection & Development manager Asia Pacific, Personal Care, Korea
Mr. Sanguk Choi studied biology and holds a master’s degree in medicinal biotechnology. He has eleven years' experience in skin care formulation at both a leading cosmetics company and Cognis Korea, which is now part of the BASF group. He has been working on emulsion technologies and development of new texture formulations for personal care applications, Asia Pacific.
Disclaimer
This presentation is for information purposes only. In particular, Cognis neither assumes the position of a consultant or advisor nor any liability for the accuracy and/or completeness of the information and/or recommendations given. Any information or recommendation given may not be complete and / or sufficient to fully evaluate Cognis’ products and their performance. You are responsible to test all products as to their characteristics, performance and the suitability for your intended use and to ensure its compliance with all applicable laws and regulations.
Nothing in this presentation or in the information given in connection with this presentation, whether in writing, orally or otherwise, is intended to give, or can be interpreted as giving, any representations and / or warranties on the characteristics of Cognis’ products, their properties, use and application, their suitability for any specific or particular purpose, their compliance with laws and regulations and / or rights of third parties. All information given in or in connection with this presentation shall be deemed confidential and proprietary to Cognis.
top