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Article Skin Care Forum Issue 46 Guest Article Skinasensyl® - A new peptidic active ingredient to reduce discomfort and painful sensations in sensitive skin Authors: Gilles Pauly, Philippe Moussou, Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau, Louis Danoux, Olga Freis, Mélanie Sabadotto, Isabelle Benoit and Andreas Rathjens http://www.scf-online.com/english/46_e/skinasensyl46_e.html Skinasensyl® is new synthetic tetrapeptide which helps relieve sensitive skin by normalizing the tolerance threshold for environmental factors, certain topically applied uncomfortable products or skin care treatments. It mimicks a natural opioid peptide and was developed with the aim to decrease the stimulation of the skin’s nerve endings. Click on the link above to read the full article. Newsletter Cosmetotextiles - Skin care you can wear Authors: Raymond Mathis, Annette Mehling http://www.scf-online.com/english/46_e/cosmetotextiles46_e.html Cosmetotextiles are textiles with cosmetic properties, but they can also be a vehicle for other active substances or functions. This article discusses microencapsulation as a key technology for cosmetotextiles, and treats the regulatory framework which in the past was based on various approaches. With regard to the cosmetic efficacy of cosmetotextiles, the safety of ingredients, quantity of the product used and synergies between type of textile and cosmetic finish are aspects which are of major importance. Cover Picture Simplified, schematic representation of an allergic inflammation of the skin Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/46_e/title46_e.html This article describes the interaction between the various players involved in the development of skin inflammation, focussing on the role of Langerhans cells, keratinocytes, cytokines, T-cells, and lymph nodes. Newsletter Wet dryer sheets - For textiles that look and feel good Author: Markus Doerr Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/46_e/WetDryerSheets46_e.html The article treats a new concept for the effective transfer of substances to fabrics. The special technology of "Wet dryer sheets" makes clothes pleasant to wear, protects them from wear and tear, improves color maintenance and increases moisture uptake. They may contain skin care ingredients that provide protection for sensitive skin, thus enabling manufacturers to meet specific consumer needs. Skin Care Forum Issue 45 Cover Picture Skin irritation Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/45_e/title45_e.htm Our illustration shows persisting skin irritation in its final stage. A distinct desquamation and thickening of the horny layer are recognized on the skin's surface. Intercellular edema have developed in the epidermal layer. Click on the link above to read the full article. Newsletter Perception, measurement and visualization of cosmetic effects Authors: Torsten Clarius, Olga Freis, Dominique Gauché, Marie-Danielle Vazquez-Duchêne, Marie-France Zambaux, Gilles Pauly, Andreas Rathjens Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/45_e/visualization45_e.htm Modern visualization techniques not only help improve quantitative evaluations of test results but also lead to presentations which are more convincing for the consumer. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques are steadily increasing this competence to document the efficacy of skin and body care products. Three-dimensional animations of detailed dermal structures of individual cells are suited to present scientific topics in an easy way and may contribute to the cosmetic manufacturer's credibility. Guest article Questions about Skin Care - Frequently asked consumers’ questions Author: Michaela Arens-Corell Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/45_e/questions45_e.htm In this article, frequently occurring questions about skin care are summarized. The need and interest of consumers to obtain in-depth information about skin care seems to be unlimited. In spite of the multitude of magazines featuring cosmetic articles and special reports in newspapers, on the radio and TV, plus the great variety of sources to be found on the Internet there is still an astonishingly large requirement for even more information. Click on the link above to read the full article. Newsletter Determination of the substantivity of emollients to human hair Authors: Hans-Martin Haake, Hélène Lagrené, Angela Brands, Wolf Eisfeld, David Melchior Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/45_e/substantivity45_e.htm This article focuses on the determination of silicones and hydrogenated didecenes deposited on human hair from shampoo applications. For silicones, ICP-OES (induced coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy) of extracts and X-ray fluorescence analysis of hair strands without any further sample preparation were applied. Three shampoos from the European and Asian markets were investigated at repeated shampoo applications followed by the determination of the removability with sodium laureth sulfate. Hydrogenated didecenes were quantified by GC-MS of extracts. A transparent shampoo containing 1.8% of hydrogenated didecenes delivered via a nanoemulsion was examined in the same way as the commercial shampoos. The substantivity data were compared with performance data from combability determination and hair volume measurements. Good correlations of analytical data and performance profiles were obtained. top
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