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Skin Care Forum Issue 44
Cover Picture
Spectrum and Effects of Sunlight
Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/44_e/title44_e.htm
According to state-of-the-art knowledge, UVB irradiation is mainly responsible for DNA damage, while UVA irradiation is essentially the originating factor for oxidative stress in the skin. Infrared (IR) rays of the sunlight are responsible for photobiological mechanisms of skin damage and contribute a further aspect which has been not been sufficiently considered up to now. Scientists assume that part of the IR radiation penetrates into the skin, i.e. epidermis and dermis, and leads to biological effects there.
Newsletter
Performance of Cupuassu Products on Hair Care Applications
Authors: Ana Carolina Santos Nogueira, Henrique Jorge Sousa Sales, Hans-Martin Haake
Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/44_e/cupuassu44_e.htm
Cupuassu (Theobroma grandiflorum) is used by the cosmetic industry in both hair and skin care formulations. The main claims of hair products using Cupuassu are improved hydration, softness, shine and combability. The aim of this study was to evaluate the performance of Cupuassu-based raw materials on hair cosmetic products using hydro-retention, tensile strength and gloss measurements. Cupuassu products, mainly Cupuassu Butter, incorporated into cosmetics products, show a good performance on hair properties. An improvement in hair breaking tensile strength and hydro-retention was observed. The improvement of hair properties provided by Cupuassu Butter is related to its good deposition on hair surface and capacity to penetrate the hair cortex.
Skin Care Forum Issue 43
Newsletter
Looking for "green" alternatives in skin cleansing? New concepts - mild and easy to formulate
Authors: Iris Huetter, Jessica Erasmy, Norbert Boyxen
Link:http://www.scf-online.com/english/43_e/greenalternatives43_e.htm
Plantapon® SF was developed to offer a ready-to-use surfactant system which meets the market demands for "green" and mildly cleasing surfactants for application in skin cleansing products. Plantapon® SF is free of alkyl sulfate, alkylether sulfate, ethylene oxide, betaine and preservatives (ECOCERT approved) and will thus contribute to successfully formulating "green" skin cleansing concepts.
Congress Report
Percutaneous absorption: Proof of evidence and models
Author: Wolfgang Pittermann
Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/43_e/absorption43_e.htm
The author discusses questions about the penetration depth of active ingredients applied on the skin, proofs of evidence, and factors influencing the penetration of substances through the natural barrier of the horny layer.
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The human hand
Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/43_e/title43_e.htm
The properties and functions of the human hand make it a unique high-performance tool which is used for all kinds of work around the house, the garden, or on the job. It is a complex organ used for grasping and gripping and may be vulnerable when exposed to negative influences.
Market report
New marketing concepts through the use of biomimetic active ingredients: Transfer of vegetal mechanisms to skin and hair care
Authors: Torsten Clarius, Philippe Moser, Olga Freis, Florence Henry, Louis Danoux, Christine Jeanmaire, Vincent Bardey, Gilles Pauly and Andreas Rathjens
Link: http://www.scf-online.com/english/43_e/biomimetric43_e.htm
Biomimetic approaches are a basis for the development of active ingredients and for the use in the advertising of final cosmetic products. "Learning from nature" may be the starting-point for cosmetic claims and slogans. The so-called lotus effect -- surface structures like on the upper side of lotus flower leaves, prevent germs and dirt particles from adhering to the leaves of this flower -- is a principle which may be extended to cosmetics: Proteins extracted from the Moringa oiltree have properties resulting in a lotus effect. Another example of a biomimetic cosmetic active ingredient is a product based on a flavonoid fraction from leaves of the candle tree (Senna alata (L.) Roxb). Certain flavonoids play a major role in protecting the candle tree from the consequences of intense sun radiation. This vegetal protection principle has been successfully transferred to the field of skin care.
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