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21 |
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Titel |
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Author |
| Guest
Article |
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The
Value of Brands And Implications for Formulators |
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Colin Hession |
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Personal care marketing specialist, Colin Hession,
looks at the nature of consumer franchises represented by BRANDS – particularly
in Skincare – and discusses some of the key drivers in their development, as
well as some of the implications for formulators.
The nature of consumer franchises
Is there any difference between a Product Manager
and a Brand Manager? Some people seem to think the two job titles are inter-changeable,
but even if certain companies do use them in this way, they probably ought not
to. There is a world of difference, after all, between a mere product – however
good it may be technically – and a brand franchise which generates millions
in profits every year. Getting the names mixed up, at best suggests a lack of
clarity and at worst, a complete misunderstanding. So why make a distinction?
Most reasonably competent formulators can produce
an adequate general purpose skin cream these days – look at any private label
product on any supermarket shelf, in any European country. Somewhat fewer formulators,
but still a good number, can produce a facial moisturiser which performs satisfactorily
– it’s not an exclusive club.
But only a handful of companies can actually claim
to own a franchise for skin care products in most countries of the developed
world, which is unique to their particular company and which – by definition
– no competitor can offer, i.e. a BRAND.
Some companies go so far as to call their marketing
executives Franchise Managers rather than Brand Managers. I like that, because
the Concise Oxford Dictionary defines ‘franchise’ as “the right or privilege
granted to an individual, or corporation”.
There are many definitions of what a BRAND is, but
here is one from my consultancy which we feel is worth considering:
A brand is more than a
product, name and pack. It is a unique bundle of attributes and perceptions,
which together form a franchise with the consumer which is worth money today,
and goodwill tomorrow.
Attributes and perceptions
Attributes are those physical aspects of a Brand which can be
relatively easily described. For example
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name
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logo style
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pack format
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label design
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product appearance, texture, smell
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performance characteristics
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price
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Perceptions are more tricky. Unlike Attributes, they tend not
to be susceptible to objective, scientific observation although they can certainly
be measured, thanks to market research. Perceptions are what consumers think about
a particular brand, which may be a whole lot different from how a Technical Manager
might describe the product as it appears on a shelf. For example
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image |
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reputation |
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trustworthiness |
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suitability |
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effectiveness |
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nice-to-use |
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value for money |
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feel on the skin |
These aspects of a brand’s persona are not mere
after-thoughts, nice-to-have but not essential, somehow bolted on by the advertising
agency. They are fundamental to consumers acceptance or rejection of the brand.
If this sounds almost too basic a statement to make, I would have to point out
that I have frequently heard formulators bemoan the fact that their product
is outsold by competition, yet “It’s so much better than theirs!” Better? says
who? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, surely, or more correctly, in the
eye of the purchaser.
Yet the same R&D people who say that their particular
skincare product is technically superior and thus deserves better treatment
at the hands of the consumer, will quite happily go on to express their own
strong preferences in terms of, say, beer or breakfast cereals. Who says that
such-and-such a brand of beer is better? The person who dreamt up the recipe?
No, the person who drinks it! His judgement is final, and is queried at the
brewer’s peril.
All this is not to suggest that formulation is in
any way un-important in Skincare. Indeed, it is one of the key drivers of both
attributes and perceptions. But there is a need, nevertheless, to recognise
that attributes and perceptions are also complex aspects of any brand’s franchise
with the consumer, and unless there is a clear understanding of exactly what
they are, a manufacturer can lose a franchise much faster than ever it took
to build it – consumers vote with their feet, or rather, with their shopping
baskets.
Understandingly the attributes and perceptions that
make up a particular brand’s franchise, is the job of the Brand Manager, to
whom we will return to later in this article. But also part of a Brand Manager’s
responsibility is the sharing of that understanding with his or her colleagues
in R&D.
And when it comes to R&D, understanding consumers’
likes and dislikes is a whole lot more difficult than it may seem. The language
of Perception is so much less precise than the vocabulary used to describe Attributes,
and requires experienced interpretation.
For example, a new material may give a feeling on
the skin which is different from the norm, i.e. from what the consumer expects,
based on her experience of existing brands. A number of questions then arise-
• How does she describe this new skin feel?
• What does she really mean by the words she uses?
• Regardless of her comparisons with what she may have
expected, is the new skin feel nice, or nasty?
Then very importantly, if the new formulation is
intended for an existing brand
• Is this new skin feel consistent with her perceptions
of that brand? Or is it dissonant?
Consumers have long memories
Once consumer’s likes and dislikes have been clearly
understood, and their perceptions correctly interpreted, technical excellence
is obviously of paramount importance in creating formulations in response.
Consistency over time is important, too, because
consumers have long memories. One wrong move, which goes against consumers’
basic perceptions, can often take years to overcome – as all good politicians
know only too well.
If consumers expect a particular brand of skincare
to always be smooth, soft, caring, never strident, etc, and suddenly a re-launch
formulation appears which is perceived as decidedly sticky, with a brash new
fragrance, the resulting damage can take years to overcome – if indeed the brand
survives that long!
TRUST is a key element of any consumer franchise,
and one which is invariably built up over time, but which can equally be destroyed
in just one bad experience of the product.
I came across the following results of some consumer research
done by the Henley Centre in the UK.
| How
far do you trust the following to be honest & fair? |
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| Your
doctor |
85% |
| Sainsbury |
74% |
| Tesco |
71% |
| Police |
62% |
| Judiciary |
43% |
| Local
council |
24% |
| A
multinational |
13% |
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| Source:
Henley Centre |
It seems the medical profession have a great deal
to live up to! Although Boots, the leading pharmacy chain in UK, was apparently
not included in this particular survey, other research suggests that they, too,
have an enormous reputation for trustworthiness when it comes to Skincare, etc,
based on their medical heritage.
The curious thing from a marketing point of view,
is the low trust rating given to multi-nationals as a group, relative to the
evident trust afforded to some of their leading brand franchises. This probably
goes some way to explaining why brands – as opposed to mere formulations or
manufacturing expertise alone – can fetch such high prices when it comes to
Mergers and Acquisitions.
It takes time...
Some brands seem to have an enduring quality over
time, although this is invariably no accident. Rather, it reflects consistent
nurturing by the manufacturer over many years, carefully listening to the consumer
and developing a clear understanding of what it is that gives the brand its
particular franchise with the consumer.
This is well illustrated from the excellent market research survey
produced every 2 years by German media owners, Brigitte Kommunikationsanalyse.
This measures brand Awareness, Liking and Usage and clearly demonstrates how it
takes time to build a strong consumer franchise (Table 1).
| Table
1 |
Brand
ratings (%) for facial skincare, amongst all women,
in the Western part of Germany |
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1988
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1990
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1992
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1994
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1996
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1998
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| Oil of
Olay |
Aware |
81
|
83
|
82
|
85
|
86
|
84
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|
Like |
22
|
24
|
32
|
34
|
32
|
32
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|
Use |
13
|
15
|
18
|
20
|
17
|
18
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| Ponds |
Aware |
63
|
62
|
72
|
70
|
75
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66
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|
Like |
12
|
11
|
22
|
21
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22
|
19
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|
Use |
5
|
6
|
10
|
10
|
10
|
10
|
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| Avon |
Aware |
78
|
80
|
78
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74
|
76
|
72
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|
Like |
21
|
20
|
23
|
19
|
18
|
19
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|
Use |
13
|
12
|
14
|
10
|
12
|
11
|
|
| Elizabeth
Arden |
Aware |
48
|
46
|
51
|
57
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61
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62
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|
Like |
10
|
10
|
13
|
15
|
14
|
16
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|
Use |
3
|
2
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4
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5
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4
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5
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| Plénitude |
Aware |
|
11
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29
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35
|
41
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36
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Like |
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1
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5
|
7
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6
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7
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Use |
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1
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2
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3
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3
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3
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| Nivea Visage |
Aware |
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66
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79
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79
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Like |
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|
31
|
43
|
43
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|
Use |
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21
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28
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28
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| Source:
Brigitte Kommunikationsanalyse |
| ©Skin
Care Forum |
Brand management
Brand Management, as distinct from Product Management,
should be about managing one of the company’s principle assets, namely a Brand.
Just as Production Managers have responsibility for managing the company’ physical
assets, represented by plant and machinery, so Brand Managers’ responsibilities
lie with in-tangible assets, represented by consumer franchises, brands.
The word ‘should’ is used advisedly, because regrettably
these days, the Brand Management function tends to be pushed further and further
down the organisation. The role is often performed by a relatively junior executive,
3 or 4 years out of university, bright as a button, but singularly lacking in
experience. Consequently, he or she tends to compensate for lack of any real
understanding of what makes their brand franchise tick, by producing endless
statistical analyses of sales and contribution. Indeed, they are frequently
encouraged to do so, by a system which is more geared to financial housekeeping
than to brand health.
In the same way that a Production Manager needs
to have a thorough understanding of a production machine, before attempting
to take it to bits, a Brand Manager should not start stripping his brand down
for a re-launch until he knows how to put it back together again.
For example, to tinker with elements of a formulation
in hopes of saving a few pennies – without knowing precisely what part each
element plays in the brand’s franchise with the consumer – is to court disaster.
Most of us can think of examples where the so-called ‘Salami’ effect has been
in operation, i.e. test A versus B, no change; test B versus C, no change; test
A versus C – significant difference!
Market research tools
Incisive market research tools can go a long way
towards helping understand a) what makes a brand tick, and b) how it might be
made more successful.
One such tool is the European Toiletries and Cosmetics
Database run by Europe’s leading research practitioners, Taylor Nelson Sofres.
They conduct 7,000 interviews every six months, across the five largest EC countries,
covering consumers’ usage habits over most personal care categories.
The figure “Male skin problems 1998” is a good example
of the sort of learning that can be obtained, in terms of providing direction
for R&D effort. It shows those skin problems that male consumers have identified
as applying to themselves. The relatively high figures for ‘minor problems’
in France and Germany is worth noting. The figure has been relatively high in
Germany for some years, perhaps a function of Beiersdorf’s skilful advertising
for their Nivea brand, subtly reinforcing its suitability for generally ‘keeping
you looking good’ as opposed to specific problem solving. However, the French
figure has increased from 6 percent in 1995 to 22.5 percent in 1998 – interestingly,
during that time, Beiersdorf have launched Nivea for Men in France, and L’Oreal
have introduced their Start male toiletries brand.
Brand stretching
Talking of Nivea, what an excellent example of brand
stretching that brand provides. If ever there was a text book case of skilful
brand management in action, then Beiersdorf’s Cosmed Division must surely win
the prize.
Over the years, the Nivea franchise has been successfully
extended into a whole range of categories, without diluting the core equity.
Table 2 provides ample evidence.
| Table
2 |
Brand
ratings (%) for Nivea, amongst all women,
in all of Germany |
|
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Aware
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Like
|
Use
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| Facial
Skincare |
|
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| Nivea
Visage |
77
|
41
|
27
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| Nivea Vital |
60
|
24
|
13
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| Bodycare |
|
|
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| Nivea Crème |
89
|
56
|
46
|
| Nivea Body |
68
|
37
|
29
|
| Nivea Soft |
59
|
27
|
16
|
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| Haircare |
|
|
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| Nivea |
81
|
38
|
27
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| Bath
& Shower |
|
|
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| Nivea |
88
|
54
|
44
|
|
| Source:
Brigitte Kommunikationsanalyse |
| ©Skin
Care Forum |
Implications for technical managers
So what are some of the implications of all this
for Technical Managers? Here are four which my consultancy believes are worth
considering:
1. Think ‘brand franchise’ when developing new formulations
- insist on your Marketing colleagues sharing their insights and understanding
of each franchise on a regular basis
- consider what performance results are expected by consumers as of right
for a particular franchise? What would enhance? What would surprise? What
would appal?
2. Beware formulation moves which are dissonant with a brand’s existing
franchise
- there is enormous potential for damage (to a corporate asset)
- BUT do not let it stifle R&D
creativity
3. Consumer test, test, test
- there is a need for constant experimentation to see how your brand’s franchise
can be strengthened
- but understand what the franchise is all about, before tinkering with the
engine!
4. Similarly, monitor the opposition’s brands regularly
- know precisely how they rate versus your own, and why, in terms of both
attributes and perceptions
- see where advances are being made and importantly, where dissonance is occurring
– and hence potential weak points.

Colin Hession is a consultant specialising in Cosmetics and Toiletries in Europe.
His career has incorporated brand management and operations planning with Unilever's
Elida Gibbs, in both London and Brussels. He later joined the Cussons Group as
Sales & Marketing Director and was responsible for launching the award winning
Pearl soap. Latterly he was at the forefront of development of private label with
Europe's biggest multi-national supplier, the McBride Group. He is Managing Director
of Colin Hession Consulting, 9 Bollin Hill, Wilmslow, Cheshire SK9 4AN, UK. Tel.:
+44-1625-522241, Fax +44-1625-527284, e-mail:ch@hessioncosmetics.com, Internet:
www.hessioncosmetics.com